Just visiting: Abruzzo

Itinerary: Friday morning Take an early flight to Pescara, the city that sits conveniently within driving distance of each of Abruzzo’s four provinces, Teramo, Chieti, L’Aquila and Pescara itself. Aim to land around midday so you can pick up a rental car (driving is a must to make the most of your stay here) and head straight to lunch. There are three options, depending on your penchant for pranzo. You could head into central Pescara where Taverna 58 (taverna58.it) serves up elevated Abruzzese fayre from both land (lamb and wild boar) and sea (salt cod) in a trattoria setting. Or visit Chieti, one of Italy’s most ancient cities, for a nip around the Friday morning flea market, followed by a lunch of local chittarina pasta at decades-old institution Ristorante Nino (ninoristorante.it). Or hit the road north to Teramo, where chef Marco Cozzi recreates classic Abruzzese dishes with Michelin-approved flair at Spoon (spoonteramo.jimdofree.com).

3pm: Walk off lunch… depending on where you ended up. If that’s Pescara, head to its Museum of Modern Art or, forget the walk and make like a local and take a siesta at one of the many classic beach clubs. In Chieti, the Archaelogical Museum houses the famous Warrior of Capestrano. And in Teramo, its Romanesque-Gothic cathedral is a must-see – as is the downing of an aperitivo at the historic café Caffè Meletti (mine’s a Crodino spritz all the way).

5pm: Go for a spin Drive up to 1,250m above sea level to the Grand Sasso national park, chasing the sun set as you go. Windows down to drink in the cool mountain air, make your way to Santo Stefano di Sessanio, the medieval fortified village (once belonging to the Medicis) turned luxury boutique hotel known as Sextantio. One of the first examples of the “albergo diffuso” concepts in Italy that sees entire villages rescued from ruins and turned into thriving hubs, the village is home to bar, trattoria, and little shops selling the most beautiful handspun blankets and artisanal candles. Remember to leave space in your suitcase for these.

8pm: Eat well and… Sleep tight in one of Sextantio’s 27 rooms (sextantio.it) that range from multi-level dwellings to cosy single-occupancy suites. The emphasis here is on rustic authenticity with invisible luxury (so, super-fast Wifi, underfloor heating and aircon, and top-of-the-range en-suite bathrooms).

Saturday morning Italy is the land of early risers and with only a weekend to explore, it’s advisable to do the same. For a morning spent in nature, explore the Grand Sasso Mountains or drive down the mountain and make your way inland to the Maiella National Park where you can stop in picturesque villages including Sulmona, home to the famous Confetti sweeties and annual snake festival, and Guadiagrele where Pasticceria Emo Lullo makes the famous Tre Monti sponge cakes (once known as “Sise delle Monache” meaning nun’s tits).

1pm: Head to the coast… for a fish lunch. The catch-of-the-day pop-ups in San Vito Chietino,Trattoria San Domenico in Ortona, Agri Sunrise in Vasto (the latter enjoys breathtaking views out to the Tremiti islands) and Finis Terrae in Casalbordino (a personal favourite) are just a few excellent options.

8pm: Dine in style If the thought of two hotels in two nights doesn’t phase you… hop in the car and make your way to Casadonna (nikoromito.com), the 16th-century former monastery that was transformed by chef Niko Romito and his wife, Cristiana into a luxury bolthole with 10 rooms and a three Michelin star restaurant. If you ask nicely, you might also be given a tour of the property’s experimental vineyard that produces its own Pecorino wine.

Sunday: Have lunch on a trabbocho. A jewel in Abruzzo’s crown is the Trabbochi Coast, named after the long wooden structures that stretch out to sea. Working fishing platforms in the early morning, they transform into bustling restaurants for long lunches and longer dinners serving up what they have caught. Some have set menus, others serve up whatever they have, but usually range from six to 12 dishes (be prepared, wear something stretchy). Booking is essential in the summer – try Trabocco Pesce Palombo (traboccocungarelle.it) and Traboccho Cungarelle (instagram.com/trabocco.pescepalombo) . They never disappoint.

3pm: Have some beach downtime. Contrary to popular belief, Abruzzo is not all pebble beaches and has sprawling expanses of sandy shores and beach clubs for every energy level. From Giulianova in the north, Francavilla al Mare in the middle, and Punta Penna - where the sky turns pink at sunset - in the south, its beaches are one of Abruzzo’s best-kept secrets.

Pin for next time… If you can’t fit them on this visit, make a point to return to Roccascalegna, where the medieval castle sits dramatically atop a rocky clifftop and the Cascate del Rio Verde, the highest natural waterfall in the Italian Apennines. And don’t forget to bring a picnic.

Photograph Getty Images