With its medieval streets, perfect piazzas, parks and ancient towers, Bologna is one of the great weekend boltholes. Yet it is so much more than an open-air museum. Thanks to its university, Europe’s oldest (founded 1088), it’s also young and buzzy. Its food, however, is the star of the show. Birthplace of tortellini, lasagne and tagliatelle, there is a dizzying array of pasta restaurants to choose from. When you’re not eating, the best way to take in Italy’s culinary capital is by walking. You’ll be sheltered by its ornate arched porticoes, which stretch for almost 40 miles, lining every street and piazza.
Friday midday: Get your bearings Head straight to the city’s heart, Piazza Maggiore. Climb up the medieval clock tower, or Torre dell’Orologio, for views across rose-pink rooftops to the green hills beyond.
1pm: Work up an appetite Stroll the ancient streets around Via Clavature where market stalls are piled high with wheels of parmesan. Stop for lunch at Va Mo LÃ , a bookshop turned restaurant.
3pm: Head for the park Walk lunch off in nearby Giardini Margherita, Bologna’s most popular park. Stop for coffee at the park’s Chalet dei Giardini Margherita.
5pm: Hit the shops Stroll back into town through Via Rizzoli and Via d’Azeglio, brimming with independent boutiques: Ballerette for ballet flats, Amarena Fabbri for jars of black cherries, and Cineteca di Bologna for vintage Italian movie posters.
6pm: Go truffle hunting Wander through the old ghetto to restaurant A Balùs on Via del Borgo for truffle dishes, including shaved over fried eggs is delicious.
Saturday 10am: Cook with a local Take a pasta class with Cristina Rossi at Cesarine. Start at Mercato delle Erbe for fresh ingredients. Back in her kitchen, learn how to do tortellini and tiramisu from scratch.
1pm: Go for a gelato Leave space for a visit to Cremeria Cavour, close by, for the best ice-cream in the city.
3pm: Head for the hills A 30-minute walk takes you to the panoramic terrace of the Church of San Michele in Bosco, perched high on a hill.
5pm: Aperitivo hour Small and buzzy, Aurum bar on Via Santa Margherita is a local favourite. Savour a negroni sbagliato for only €6.
6pm: All that jazz Bologna is rich in jazz history and also has an annual festival. Take a detour down La Strada del Jazz, a tribute to famous musicians who’ve played here, including trumpeters Chet Baker and Miles Davis.
7.30pm: Eat out old-style Trattoria dal Biassanot in ‘Little Venice’ serves up classic dishes. Its soufflé-light lasagne verdi al forno is culinary perfection.
Sunday 11am: Gaze at a vase Born in Bologna, painter Giorgio Morandi lived in the city until his death in 1964. Many of his famous still lifes of bottles and vases are displayed here at Museo Morandi.
1pm: A final feast Perch outside iconic 1930s deli and wine bar Tamburini where you can gorge on a final antipasto spread of mortadella, prosciutto, salami, cheeses, marinated veg and olives.
In brief
Stay Mercure Bologna Centro, close to the station, has a sleek roof terrace perfect for an aperitivo as well as tranquil gardens.
Eat Balanzoni – green tortelloni stuffed with ricotta and mortadella at Va Mo Là .
See La Rossa, the red city, stretched out below you from the splendid vantage point of the Church of San Michele.
Photograph Alamy