The Spanish Basque city is a food-lover’s paradise
Olives, anchovies and pickled peppers shoved on to sticks. Griddled mushrooms dripping in rich, runny egg yolk. Plump prawns a la plancha. Toast topped with tuna. Was that grilled foie gras? Bienvenido a San Sebastián, home of the perfectly portioned pintxo. There’s history and culture aplenty in this ever-popular Basque seaside resort – wild waves for surf-seekers, too, but it’s food that pulls in the punters. From bite-size bar snacks to top-tier fine dining (the city has 18 Michelin stars), Donostia, as it’s also known, – to use the city’s Basque name – is a gastronomic paradise best explored on foot. Bar-hop, criss-crossing the Urumea River, which runs through the centre. Pack your swimming costume; pack your umbrella. You’ll need both within the hour. Venture here outside the peak summer season if possible, though even during school holidays, it’s perfectly pleasant amongst the crowds.
Friday 4pm: Check into Hotel One Shot
Next to the city’s train station, this former tobacco factory is shared with the Tabakalera culture centre – pop into the Maider López exhibition (free entry) on your way out.
6pm: Meander into the city centre proper
Cross the ornate, obelisk-flanked María Cristina bridge, head into the centre, and pop and head (briefly) into the Cathedral Buen Pastor de San Sebastián to marvel at the 19th-century architecture during an crowded, incense-heavy early evening mass.
8pm: Pintxos! Pintxos! Pintxos!
Start your night like a true Donostiarra: a round of gildas at Lobo Centro (there’s a vat behind the bar) followed by a €4 portion of patatas al ajillo at Bar Ciaboga, next door but one. Skip the Stella at the neighbouring Gabarrón and sip vermouth while picking at tortilla and anchovies. Half cut, go off-piste: find a bar, and eat snacks off skewers. Stick to swigging cañas (small beers) if you’ve any chance of lasting the night.
12am: Dance at Dabadaba
If, somehow, you’re still standing, check out this popular venue, with an eclectic calendar of live music and weekend club nights.
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Saturday: 10am Explore Museo San Telmo
The cloisters house 11 astonishing canvases by José María Sert depicting major Basque historical events. Upstairs, a collection of modern art includes pieces by the region’s most celebrated 20th-century painters.
12pm: Walk up an appetite Take one of four paths ascending Mount Urgull. Panoramic vistas, military materiel and a giant Jesus statue await at the summit. You’ll be up within 45 minutes. Halfway down, stop for a drink at Urgulleko Polboriña - the mojitos are surprisingly good.
2pm: Eat the meal of a lifetime In a city bursting with gastronomic greatness, three-Michelin-starred Arzak is the crema de la crema. In the family for over a century, t This once-humble taverna is now an internationally revered institution, with fourth-generation chef Elena at the helm. The modern Basque fine-dining tasting menu is remarkable. Be sure to book ahead.
8pm: Take a quick dip
After a nap, walk west on the waterfront along the shell-shaped La Concha beach, (comparatively) less choppy than its neighbour. Brave a refreshing golden-hour dunk in the Bay of Biscay.
9pm: Explore the city’s oldest neighbourhood
Potter through Antiguo. Grab a croquette from Kroketeria Donostiarra ROKETERIA DONOSTIARRA, then weave through the hordes boozing outside TrikuHarri. Wolf down a portion of tomato and tuna belly salad, then watch the pastel sunset fade from the grassy hill outside Miramar Jauregia.
Sunday 10am: See Balenciaga’s birthplace
Jump on the bus or take a taxi to At the nearby beach town of Getaria, birthplace of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Here, a swanky museum celebrates his life and work. The Subtleties of a Dialogue exhibition, where pieces by Cristóbal and Demna are presented side-by-side, alone is worth the €14 entry fee.
2pm: Eat the old town
Stroll through Park Alderdi Eder, stopping to marvel at the all-weather surfers below. In high season, old town eateries are heaving. Join the queue at La Cuchara de San Telmo, squeeze in, and order dishes in the smallest of the offered sizes. Then push your way to the counter at nearby La Viña for a perfect slab of burnt Basque cheesecake – best gobbled down on-site.
In brief
Stay
The modern, high-ceilinged rooms at Hotel One Shot Tabakalera House are good value all year round (from £67 in low season, £150 in high).
Eat
Book well in advance to dine at the brilliantly Basque Arzak for some of the world’s best fine-dining that’s brilliantly Basque. Geralds Bar is a local favourite, dishing dishes up immaculate food, drinks and vibes. The pintxos at Ganbara are some of the best in town.
Don’t miss
Basque history, art and culture at the San Telmo Museum offers Basque history, culture and art (open 10am-8pm, Sunday to Tuesday). or a guided culinary pintxos tour Join a guided, premium San Sebastián Pintxos Tour to learn more about the culinary scene at 12:30pm or 7pm daily (€135 per adult, food and drinks included).
Editor’s note: our recommendations are chosen independently by our journalists. The Observer may earn a small commission if a reader clicks a link and purchases a recommended product. This revenue helps support Observer journalism.
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