Wonderful chocolate discoveries in Copenhagen

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a vast and sprawling coastal venue north of Copenhagen, which you get to by double-decker train and a walk through Humlebæk suburbia. The main exhibition when I went was of the Venezualan and American artist Marisol, none of which made sense until I watched the film about her life and found out her mother killed herself when Marisol was 11 years old and, suddenly, her piecemeal art fell poignantly into place.

But our favourite show at the museum was Jon Rafman’s Nine Eyes: stills from Google’s Street View and a wonderful, at times painful and baffling slice of global social history.

The shop, like so many museum shops, was excellent and original. And just when you think you’ve met most of the chocolate in the world, I saw Mellōw Chocolate. Made in Copenhagen, the bars are all organic, bean-to-bar and absolutely delicious: clean-tasting, creamy, smooth. My only regret is that the cocoa percentage currently doesn’t go above 70%. Standouts for me were the Coffee Colombia and the Hazelnuts Piedmont. But what I really loved were the Minis, exquisite little bars of their flavours (hopefully they will one day do a mixed box) that are a tiny hit of chocolate every day. Prices start at about £7, stockists are scarce in the UK, but worth seeking out (try Cocoa Runners), or you can order directly from Mellōw. Or make a trip to Copenhagen.I stayed at the Nimb Hotel and spent the evenings wondering round the Tivoli Gardens, eating chestnuts and feeling like I was in a cheesy but pleasey film.