Meghan in the pink with launch of her own celebrity rosé

Perhaps it is an awareness of the fleeting nature of fame that has led so many a celebrity towards rosé. It is, after all, quicker to make – and quicker to sell. Wine expert and author Wendy Narby says they have a quicker turnaround than red wines, which might need to be aged before they can be sold – and drinkers tend to drain a bottle soon after buying it, rather than squirrelling it away in a cellar. That way it’s soon time to buy another bottle.

Rosé was thought of as a sweet drink, Cooper said, thanks to some California varieties that taste “like fruit juice”. But there has been a surge in more serious labels. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s Miraval won a number of awards, before the vineyard became embroiled in the couple’s divorce proceedings. They are now resolved but there are reports of an ongoing dispute over the Provence vineyard.

Phillip Schofield’s box wine also suffered from its celebrity provenance, and disappeared from shelves following his controversial exit from This Morning.

Narby says celebrities are on to a booming product. “It’s an easy market … It reaches a huge market. If you’re a celebrity, you’ve got a big reach, so making a rosé means you’re going to please a much larger audience.”

But some namesakes are more involved than others. Narby says of the singer Pink, whose wine company Two Wolves produces a rosé: “She studied wines, she’s involved in the winemaking and the vine-growing.”

Minogue’s offering is also a safe bet. “It’s very drinkable, I’d recommend it. It’s made by a very reputable winemaker, Gérard Bertrand,” said Cooper. And the Brangelina Miraval is “marvellous and probably worth the money”.

Minogue said she first dreamt up the idea of making her own rosé while working in Nashville in 2017. It was “swimming-through-the-air hot,” she told the wine magazine Decanter, and there was “lots of alfresco dining, lots of Whispering Angel on the table”. She recalled looking at the glass and wondering aloud: “What if I have a rosé one day?”

She has likened her different wines to different kinds of song: some are “like aiming for a smash hit, the song that has high rotation and that is a dependable go-to”, while others are like “side projects, remixes, special performances that are for super-fans and enthusiasts”.

People should expect to pay above the odds for most celebrity wines. “But they’re not doing any harm,” Cooper said.

She added: “Good luck to Meghan. It’s a compliment to rosé.”