In 2013 I received a call from Franca Sozzani, the editor of Vogue Italia, telling me that Giorgio Armani had chosen me to showcase my collection. I was the first black designer of the couture movement Made in Italy, and the first womenswear collection to show at his theatre in Milan, all because of him. It was such an incredible thing that at first I thought they were kidding and they had to call again.
I was told that Armani would not attend the show. His team explained that his presence might cast too long a shadow and so, out of respect, he would remain absent. After the show, I was mid-interview with Vogue’s fashion editor Suzy Menkes and the usual backstage chaos gave way to an almost sacred silence. I turned to see what had caused it and through a doorway Armani had appeared. He made a small gesture to call me over and congratulated me warmly. I asked: “But how did you see the show if you weren’t here?” With a half-smile he replied: “You forget this is my home.” He had watched everything silently, choosing not to occupy the spotlight but to offer it. That is what a giant does. Some men lead by presence but great men also lead by absence, knowing when not to take up space.
Remembering this, in his absence, we should celebrate someone who opened the door to others. A self-taught designer who studied medicine at university, he always did what was totally unexpected. You could have met him in Milan riding his bike or on the metro. He was such a simple and humble man.
While others blindly chase trends, Armani set the rules for himself. You can see from his very first collection to his last that he always remained true to himself. I don’t know how many other brands can show the same consistency. People think fashion is all about trends, but Armani showed that fashion is about style.
Over the years, he took interest in the work I did with female artisans in vulnerable parts of Africa. He did so much to support communities all over the world without using it as a marketing strategy. It was his signature and something that feels so revolutionary nowadays when we overshare everything.
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At the first fashion show in his theatre in 2013, I came out at the end wearing a T-shirt that read “Grazie Mr Armani”. I came out for the finale of my show in September this year holding the same T-shirt. More people asked to buy this shirt than the pieces in the collection I showed, but I could never sell it.
Photograph by Getty Images