An aperitif is defined by its palate-whetting function. Anything simple and dry qualifies – sherry, and vermouth, pastis, or concoctions of bitter liquors such as Campari, Aperol and Suze, which glow with irresistible sunset hues. But in recent years, several alcohol-free aperitifs like Botivo have come on to the scene. Initially, I first approached these with the opinion I didn’t need my soft drinks to mimic hard liquor. Then I started to get it.
With a base of apple cider vinegar infused with bitter botanicals (such as gentian and wormwood) and citrus, herbs and honey, non-alcoholic aperitifs don’t just offer a reprieve from booze-drenched evenings. No, these bittersweet nectars, almost like grown-up cordials, are their own thing, scoring the transition from day to evening elegantly – and incidentally soberly.
I tried making my own, which proved surprisingly straightforward once I had sourced the requisite gentian and wormwood (I bought mine from G Baldwin & Co). The resulting infusion is a bracing homage to what has become one of my favourite drinks, topped with soda or tonic to whet the appetite as any self-respecting aperitif should.
The recipe
You will need a sterilised jam jar. Makes about 250ml (8-10 servings).
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raw apple cider vinegar 250ml
camomile teabag 1
orange 1
rosemary 2 sprigs
gentian root 1 heaped tsp
dried wormwood 1 heaped tsp
raw honey 2 heaped tbsp
unrefined light brown sugar 1 heaped tbsp
sparkling or tonic water to serve
ice to serve
To a sterilised jar, add the vinegar, teabag, 3 large strips of orange peel, one sprig of rosemary, gentian and wormwood. Shake well and leave in a dark place at room temperature for 24 hours.
Then strain the liquid through a fine sieve, discard the solids and return the liquid to the jar. Add the honey and sugar and shake well. Keep in the fridge and use as needed. To serve, fill a tumbler with ice, add about 25ml of the aperitif and top with sparkling or tonic water. Stir gently, then garnish with a slice of orange and the other sprig of rosemary.