Frat boys, beach combers and the return of skinny jeans: Milan men’s fashion week SS27

PAUL SMITH
In a preview ahead of his show, Paul Smith delightedly produced an old photo of him as a child with his granddad at Skegness – his grandfather wearing a suit with legs rolled up, paddling. “People used to wear suits all the time,” Smith remarked. The incongruity of the image sparked the collection’s title: Suits in Unsuitable Situations . The SS27 offering references his tailoring work from the 80s and 90s, rediscovered by his design directors following a visit to his Nottingham archive. Smith noted that Gen Z are “interested in nostalgia” and suits are becoming popular again. This collection had the ease and playfulness that Paul Smith is known for; an unlined silhouette resulted in a soft, relaxed look in summer-friendly fabrics like mouliné seersucker, and a Scottish-made tropical-weight wool. Archive tie prints became prints for shirts and summer co-ords. Tapestry samplers from Paul’s love of vintage fairs and collection of knick-knacks inspired the quirky knitwear that shouldn’t work with tailoring, but do. Lapel pins featured flotsam and jetsam charms and hand-painted pebbles were left on guests seats – a nod to Smith’s father, who would bring pebbles home from those family beach trips and decorate them.

PRADA
Assume the brace position: skinny jeans are back, but not as we know them. Prada sent the skinniest of classic five-pocket jeans down the runway in shades of banana yellow, white and hot pink – while blue denim was notable by its absence . The slightly cropped jeans were shown with matching shrunken denim jackets. The same silhouette came in leather, grey check wool and a semi-sheer organza-type fabric that gave an x-ray effect to the seam details. The youthquake denim seemed to come out of co-creative director Raf Simons’ wheelhouse while Mrs Prada’s hand was clear in the vintage prints and colour palette. In a break from tradition the usual backstage post-show interview was cancelled; instead, quotes and notes were circulated to press. “Everything looks simple, but it is not.” Simons said of the collection titled Clarity . “It is about being extremely decisive, and precise,” he added. Accessories were streamlined – pouch bags clipped to belt loops, earrings that look like rings, scarves wrapped around midriffs, bridging the gap between waistband and shrunken top. Looks were finished with triple-strap velcro shoes with a squared-off toe. Everything felt considered and linear, without fuss. “There is nothing that I hate more in this period than useless design,” said Prada.

SAUL NASH
Saul Nash chose the Milanese Gymnastics Society Forza e Coraggio, one of Milan’s oldest sporting societies, as the venue for his SS26 collection. “The collection began through researching archival imagery of sports figures and male pin-ups, examining how masculinity is constructed and performed through both clothes and gesture,” Nash said in his show notes. A “reveal and conceal” technique was at play in the garments – nylon ripstop twinsets cut with panels of different opacities – showing slivers of the body beneath. Form-fitting, semi-sheer track jackets and cycling shorts are cut from super-stretch mesh and Lycra. In addition a new suit jacket, which nods to fencing uniforms, is fitted with pleats and an elasticated back for maxim movement. The final installment in his collaboration with Lululemon was unveiled on the runway and the front row, worn by Knicks star Jordan Clarkson. A strong collection from Nash who has been steadily upping his game since decamping to the Milan schedule.

DUNHILL
SS26 is a further character study of English style. Joining Lord Snowdon – AW26’s muse – are Roger Moore and Lucien Freud. An image of Moore in a double-breasted blazer in the early 70s and a reissued table lighter decorated with playing-card-suit symbols from the Dunhill archive were an inspiration starting point for creative director Simon Holloway. Card motifs also appeared on slippers, robes and two-tone dupione jackets, a couture fabric woven on a rare loom from the 60s. The quintessentially English mood continued with a love letter to the blue blazer, in three shades: French, Azure, and Sky, made from worsted cashmere panama from Huddersfield. “An amazing performance cloth that doesn’t wrinkle,” said Holloway. Details like cigar pockets and steering-wheel stitching applied to bag handles, and cashmere silk scarves made in Scotland, mimic Freud’s personal style.

RALPH LAUREN
Presented as a double bill, Ralph Lauren showed Purple Label followed by Polo at his Milan HQ. Star guests included Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo and Tom Hiddleston, all immaculately turned out. “When I began designing menswear, my inspiration came from the ease and traditions of collegiate style and the gentleman athlete,” Lauren explained in his show notes. “It was about character and camaraderie, a timeless style they made their own.” Those archetypal characters were seen on the runway – the elegant gent of Purple Label with an enviable evening-wear wardrobe and the cool young prepster of Polo. It was the Polo section that proved the scene-stealing star. Every look was a visual delight in uplifting colour and pattern combinations; contrasting check shirts were layered up, sometimes three at a time, homespun patchwork knits were paired with loose-cut casual chinos. Standout pieces included a vintage-inspired varsity jacket and collegiate shopper bags. Lauren’s next-generation vision of American prep has never looked better.

GIORGIO ARMANI
Leo Dell’Orco captured the spirit of the Mediterranean with his SS27 collection for Giorgio Armani. Shown alfresco in the courtyard of Palazzo Orsini – the former home of the late designer, who passed away last year aged 91 – the space was decorated with rattan mats and Moroccan cushions. Following the show, the gates to the garden were opened for a cocktail party as the sun set on Milan fashion week. The collection’s colour palette drew on the white of sun-scorched stone, earthy sun-drenched shades and tones of market spices. Flowing shirts were shown alongside relaxed safari jackets and a slimmer but still fluid trouser. Heatwave-friendly fabrics, woven from natural fibres like linen, cotton and shantung, looked cool in more ways than one as temperatures in the Italian capital crept up to 38C. Dell’Orco said “I believe that in menswear it is essential to return to researching and innovating materials.” Also shown was the women’s cruise collection, the first designed by Armani’s niece, Silvana Armani.

DOLCE & GABBANA
Fashion fans will know that Sicily is rarely not on a Dolce & Gabbana mood board. SS27 was no exception, titled Vacanze Siciliane (Sicilian holiday) the collection served up the ultimate summer wardrobe, encompassing everything from summer black to head-to-toe white looks, via postcard prints of vacation scenes and lemon trees, and opulent embellishments on distressed denim and accessories. Silk swimwear, crochet pieces, chevron-striped knits and tailored jackets in linen are inspired by the first wave of modern tourists to discover Sicily during the 50s and early 60s. This is the design duo’s first runway since April’s announcement that Stefano Gabbana tendered his resignation as chair effective from January. As part of a reshuffle the former Gucci chief executive Stefano Cantino was appointed as co-CEO of the Group, alongside Alfonso Dolce, a brother of Domenico. Gabbana’s role as co-creative director alongside Domenico Dolce remains unaffected.

BRIONI
The brand’s presentation was focused on Brioni Maestria, a customisation service offering new levels of exclusivity across a broad range of options in all categories, from shirts and knitwear to footwear and small leather goods. The collection took inspiration from the eternal beauty of Rome, where Brioni was founded, the colour palette reflecting the city’s historic centre. The art of colour is a Brioni hallmark. A Rosso Roma dusky pink suit (a key trend for next summer) and a golden herringbone with leaf-motif evening jacket were standout pieces. Alongside the tailoring were smart-casual pieces including a suede blouson jacket, an unlined safari jacket in wool and linen herringbone, and a lightweight travel jacket in wool hopsack.

MSGM
Massimo Giorgetti presented his SS27 MSGM collection in the Milan gallery space where he is a partner. A video collaboration with Los Angeles-based visual artist, P. Staff, provided the background to 30 mannequins wearing a fully unisex collection. Giorgetti explained all pieces would be available in two fits. The collection is a remix of the DNA of MSGM, capturing the lightness and energy the brand is known for. Preppy collegiate tropes contrasted with Western details, like embellished yoke jackets and floral embroidery on striped shirting. Dip-dye knitwear, raw-edge tweed, and leather where all mixed with aplomb. The mood at MSGM is, as ever, optimistic.

TODS
Creative director Matteo Tamburini presented  The Italian Wardrobe , a celebration of Italian lifestyle – not the glitzy postcard glam of La Dolce Vita but a quieter appreciation of simple, beautiful things. The 1984 work of photographer Luigi Ghirri, Viaggio in Italia , a milestone in contemporary Italian photography, focused on the everyday Italian landscape helped inform the collection. Central to the collection is the Pashmy project, an extraordinarily soft and light leather (named after the pashmina) that showcases Tod’s expertise in material research and development. Used for timeless wardrobe staples like the Brera Bomber and the almost weightless Solferino shirt. Each piece is certified by the signature of a master craftsman.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Brunello Cucinelli mulled over Shakespeare’s “Thought is free” quote from The Tempest as he worked on SS27. Designed with free thinkers in mind, the collection is dedicated to the contemporary man with a strong sense of identity. “It is a state of mind. An aesthetic attitude shaped by individuality,” declared the show notes. New for SS27 is a resin-dyed cable knit that results in a sun-bleached effect in shades of raspberry, apricot, peach blossom, and aqua green. Cucinelli’s brand of discreet and refined luxury was evident in the fabric choices – washed cottons and linens, supple suedes and ultra-lightweight wools. There was a balance between structure and ease, think  tailored blazers paired with worn-in denim and evening jackets worn with pleated trousers and jumpers tied over the shoulders.