Plan a foodie holiday – 22 ideas from around the UK

Plan a foodie holiday – 22 ideas from around the UK

Pizza on a canoe, seafood with a view, the best ice-cream – from Sussex to Scotland, and East Anglia to Wales


Shropshire’s king of the grill, Adam Purnell

“I’m very social. I love the outdoors. You light a fire, start cooking and people gravitate to you,” says barbecue expert Adam Purnell. “It creates an ambience and, [with] the use of smoke, flavours no one can replicate in a kitchen.”

A former youth worker, Purnell started his food career cooking online as the Shropshire Lad. Now, the 41-year-old is a full-time barbecue advocate: tutor, demo chef and restaurateur. “You smell us before you see us,” he says of Embers, his woodland cafe-restaurant near Ironbridge in Shropshire, whose numerous working fire bowls, ovens and smokers resemble “a barbecue graveyard”.

After years of live fire cooking, Purnell is currently obsessed with low ’n’ slow Texas-style barbecue, and particularly fusion concepts such as San Antonio’s Curry Boys BBQ or Austin’s KG BBQ, where, to quote one tagline, “Egypt Meats Texas”.

Over various courses at Embers, Purnell shares such enthusiasms while educating visitors about, for example, utilising different heat zones or his preference for cooking over fruit woods, rather than heavier oak or beech: “Cherry wood is my favourite ingredient; it gives a beautiful sweet smoke.”

But first buy a temperature probe to monitor your food’s progress. “Never do anything by eye or guesswork,” he says, warning of the variables of outdoor cooking such as wind or air temperature. Winging it, says Purnell, “is where people go wrong – 100%”. Tony Naylor

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Photograph by Adrian Sherratt


Find the Hidden Hut in Cornwall

Chef Simon Stallard. Photograph by Adrian Sherratt

Chef Simon Stallard. Photograph by Adrian Sherratt

Secreted away on the South West Coast Path just outside Portscatho, this little hut appears out of the grass, above the sands of Porthcurnick Beach. For such a small and remote place, the Hidden Hut punches well above its weight, whipping up soups, salads and stews during the day and, on select summer evenings, it sets up long tables on the sand, hosting ticketed feasts. Its chowder is perfect fuel for a walk along some of the country’s best coastline. Molly Codyre


A chef’s guide to East Anglia

Richard Bainbridge in Norwich. Photograph by Ali Smith

Richard Bainbridge in Norwich. Photograph by Ali Smith

“Norwich is the only UK city with a national park – the Norfolk Broads – running through it,” explains Richard Bainbridge, chef-owner of Benedicts and Norwich native. He recommends enjoys exploring the waterway via canoe on the Pub and Paddle tour. “You get a different angle, drink local ales and finish with great pizza – I love their pepperoni – at the Ribs of Beef pub.”

Families should head north to Sharrington for strawberry picking or Morston Quay for the abundance of samphire that thrives in the chalky marshland. “Wash and blanch it,” he says, “and serve with butter and a poached egg. Life doesn’t get much better.” For the crucial matter of finding the ultimate chippy, Bainbridge recommends Sheringham. “Dave’s Fish Bar has kept its 1970s essence and does lovely chips. Take a cone to the seafront and watch the crab boats come in as you eat.” Ice cream? “Ronaldo Ices has a Norfolk lavender flavour that my mum loves.”

In Suffolk, Bainbridge’s first foodie stop is Snape Maltings, on the bank of the River Alde. “Earsham Street Deli,” he says, “is great for grabbing necessities.” Next, he suggests heading to the old-school Butley Orford Oysterage for a bowl of mussels and a pint of Adnams. “It looks like a greasy spoon, but the food is incredible.” For date night, Bainbridge and his wife head to the Unruly Pig in Bromeswell; he’s not alone in thinking it’s the best gastropub in the country. “It’s relaxed and unpretentious, but the food is serious.”

For a family-friendly day trip, walk along the beach at Walberswick, try crabbing on the harbour and don’t miss the Scoops ice-cream van for a Lickety Ice lolly (try the vanilla chocolate shard). Take the foot ferry to Southwold for the Box bakery, which on Saturdays has breads, savouries and treats from Johnny Spillings, who trained at Le Manoir. “You get Michelin-star-quality pastries,” Bainbridge says. “Walk back through the village, over the ferry and off again into the world.” Hayley Myers


Top-tier seafood in Ullapool

Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick of The Seafood Shack. Photograph by Murdo Macleod

Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick of The Seafood Shack. Photograph by Murdo Macleod

While others flee south for sun, sea and scorching heat, a flight or train to Inverness, followed by a meandering, gorse- and thistle-lined drive through hills and valleys will deposit you in Ullapool, on Scotland’s west coast. Make your first stop the Seafood Shack, where the country’s aquatic larder shines in cullen skink (the classic Scottish seafood soup made with smoked haddock, potatoes and onions), langoustines in a tangled pile with mayonnaise, and, if you’re lucky, hot smoked Ullapool trout. Stay at the Dipping Luggerand clear your head at the beautiful Achmelvich beach, an hour’s drive away, whose waters are as clear as the Caribbean even if their temperature is firmly North Atlantic. Molly Codyre


Savour the Ribble Valley

Visitors tend to race past the Ribble Valley, up the M6 to the Lake District. They are missing out. Home to a rich food culture and ravishing countryside, this corner of Lancashire is a very tasty destination.

You may know the valley’s big-hitters: Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms (and cookery school) Northcote, or gastropub the Parkers Arms, renowned for its sensational pies and Stosie Madi’s cosmopolitan cooking. But the scene runs deeper than these headline venues. Shopping at Bowland Food Hall, eating at next-level Italian La Locanda and pretty Waddington’s Higher Buck, or dropping in at gorgeous, remote pubs such as the 16th-century Inn at Whitewell, the Ribble Valley’s dedication to eating well – fuelled by farms, producers and chefs working in seasonal harmony – is all around you. Tony Naylor


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Eat paella in St Ives

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St Ives is on the up as a food destination. While frantic parents of ice-cream-slathered kids are clamouring for dinner reservations, skip the queues and sidle up to the side door of the Mermaid Seafood Restaurant. Grab a takeaway seafood paella and a beer and head for the smaller, more secluded Porthgwidden beach.

St Eia, around the corner from Porthmeor beach, is an excellent small plates and wine bar from Eleanor Vening and Mark Quick, who between them have Quo Vadis, Barrafina and Hawksmoor on their CVs. It makes a great almond croissant for breakfast, too.

On Fore Street, Dorian Janmaat’s Ardor gives Cornish ingredients a Spanish twist, and off the main drag on Barnoon Hill you’ll find Palais Provisions’ incredible large-format pre-batched cocktails, and ice-creams to go.

At the far end of Porthmeor, in the huts beyond the all-day dining of the always reliable Beach Cafe, you’ll find the Fish Shed. Recent dishes have included Korean fried monkfish, crabby potato bread and whole lemon sole with caper butter, served directly above the rocks, with the best sunset views in town. Molly Codyre


Step it up: take a foodie walking tour

Angela Brightwell and Catriona Lane. Photograph by Pål Hansen

Angela Brightwell and Catriona Lane. Photograph by Pål Hansen

Angela Brightwell and Cat Lane of Brighton Food Tours know Brighton’s food scene inside out. Their three-hour VIB (Very Independent Brighton) walking tour visits seven restaurants, food producers and street-food vendors that might include Bayit Bagels, Brighton’s hot new bagel shop, in-house-made ice-cream at Boho Gelato, and award-winning Indian restaurant the Chilli Pickle.

“Manchester has become a serious dining destination over the past decade, so it makes sense that its wine game has followed suit,” says Kelly Bishop of Manchester Wine Tours. Perhaps you’ll sip Roussette de Savoie at stylish rooftop bar Climat during the three-and-a-half hour tour that takes in four venues.

Discover the stories behind famous pork pies and sausages with Hidden Food Tours. Locals Charla Forinton and Matt Hall run walking tours of Melton Mowbray and Lincoln, where tastings highlight a new generation of makers, including Round Corner Brewing and the Feast and the Furious smokehouse, as well as some of the area’s best cheese. Andy Lynes


Forage for produce in Pembrokeshire

Pembrokeshire’s beaches draw summer crowds, and recently the quality of the local produce, from spider crabs to Welsh asparagus, has begun to attract due attention. “Everything’s here,” says Matt Powell, chef-patron of Annwn, a foraging-first restaurant in Narberth. “I don’t think you could find a better place in the UK for growing things.”

Annwn’s 10-course menu – hyper seasonal, hyper local – has earned the endorsement of Michelin and ecstatic customers. It’s tiny, just 10 covers, and open three nights a week, maybe four, since Powell and his partner Naomi prefer to spend Sundays in the garden. “We’re trying to modernise Welsh food,” Powell says. “It’s just finding the time as we’re always out foraging.”

It would make a worthy pilgrimage. Stay at Grove of Narberth, a boutique hotel which has a first-rate restaurant, Fernery. Its Scottish chef, Douglas Balish, moved here six years ago: “We’ve got amazing suppliers, and Narberth itself must have the most cafes per square foot of anywhere in the UK.” His local tips include the Spanish deli Ultracomida, Top Joe’s pizza and the Rock’n’Dough Bakehouse.

A pleasant drive away is Angle, where you will find the Cafe Morseafood shack as well as Atlantic Edge Oysters, and there’s Lan Y Mor in Saundersfoot for casual dining. Make a long weekend of it and check out Velfrey Vineyard. “Their sparkling wine really is as good as anything I’ve tried,” says Balish. “This tiny corner has so many things going on.” Richard Godwin


Urban oases: alfresco escapes in the city

On sweltering days, city-dwellers need an escape plan: a mental Rolodex of venues that will provide good food, an outdoor table and respite from the clammy bustle of the street.

Upper-floor balconies are one option, such as the pretty terrace, created by garden designer Miria Harris, at London’s Toklas, or the skyline balcony at Manchester’s Climat (interesting wines, French-influenced dishes). At east London pub the Culpeper, you can eat grill dishes – say, Rhug Estate organic chicken with lemon and thyme – in its rooftop perennial woodland garden.

Back at street level, partially “hidden”, slightly off-piste locations are a precious commodity. In Liverpool, swerve off Hardman Street into the Buyers Club courtyard for fresh pastas and spritz cocktails or, in Manchester, seek out the rear “yarden” at Manchester street-food hub Grub. The terrace at Sheffield’s Pearl at Park Hilloffers brutalist architecture, neat small plates and city views.

Look closely and alfresco nooks are everywhere: from the beer garden at ace gastropub the Broad Chare, off Newcastle’s Quayside, to the leafy, sun-trap terrace at Italian Celentano’s, one of many historic buildings surrounding Glasgow Cathedral.

For the ultimate in seclusion, head to Edinburgh’s Michelin-starred Timberyard, where, on warm days, a lucky few can eat its distinctive modern Scottish dishes in a hidden inner courtyard of eight tables. Bliss. Tony Naylor


Old-school seafood in Epping Forest

East Londoners craving old-fashioned seafood need not head to the beaches of Essex or Kent. Those seeking oysters, whelks and pints of prawns have a closer option in a surprising location: a pub car park in the middle of Epping Forest.

At the perennially busy Oyster Shack & Seafood Bar, the classics are all present. But the chefs here turn out hot dishes matching London’s top seafood restaurants. Want something simple? Crab rolls are packed with fresh, sweet meat, punchy homemade tartare sauce and lemon. Or opt for a platter, where the likes of prawns, cod cheeks or monkfish tails come slathered in garlicky butter or chilli and mango. It’s a pilgrimage site for those in the know, and perfect with pints from next door. Tomé Morrissy-Swan


Pick a path: farm-to-fork adventures

In Cumbria, chef Simon Rogan’s Our Farm is pivotal in supplying his restaurants, including the three-Michelin-star L’Enclume. Over summer, Our Farm opens to guests on Mondays, when groups are given a tour-with-snacks before sharing an alfresco meal.

Down in Cornwall, visitors to the organic Nancarrow Farm can explore its wildlife walks, before tasting chef Jack Bristow’s wood-fired treatment of its produce. Nancarrow’s courtyard kitchen serves several menus, from lunch to communal evening feasts – often outdoors, weather permitting. At its set-menu suppers, expect dishes such as smoked brisket and cucumber pickles served with sides of, perhaps, grilled chard dressed in smoked butter, seaweed vinegar and sourdough crumb.

At Wiston Estate, English wine enthusiasts can stroll in its vineyards or explore 58km of West Sussex footpaths. Various tours and tastings are offered. Friday’s “sundowner safari” includes dinner at Wiston’s Chalk restaurant, where menus draw on produce from the estate’s walled garden and the wider estate. Tony Naylor


Somerset’s rural food paradise

The Westcombe Dairy crew: the people behind Brickell’s, Woodshedding, Landrace and Fire Made, in Somerset. Photograph by Karen Robinson

The Westcombe Dairy crew: the people behind Brickell’s, Woodshedding, Landrace and Fire Made, in Somerset. Photograph by Karen Robinson

“Our story reflects the whole UK food industry over the last 100 years,” says Tom Calver, cheesemaker at the Westcombe Dairy, whose family has had a connection with the farm in this pretty area of Somerset since the late 19th century. Back then, they made farmhouse cheddar the traditional way. Post-war, they were forced to consolidate and produce anonymous “block” cheddar for the mass market. His parents reverted to traditional methods in the 1990s; now Calver has set about turning Westcombe into the most dynamic dairy in England.

At the centre of the operation are his award-winning cheeses: ricotta, caerphilly and the “five-mile” cheddar, so called because “you have to drive five miles from the farm before you stop tasting it”.

If the cheese doesn’t get you, the ice-cream will. Also on site is Brickell’s, run by Rob Gore, which uses only cream, milk, egg yolks and sugar to make a rich, irresistible custard base. The flavours, developed by Rob’s wife, Iona, include choc chip with mint from their own kitchen garden; a stracciatella made with Tom’s ricotta; and a roasted strawberry that tastes exactly like being six years old.

You’ll also find excellent microbrewery Woodshedding, run by Adrian Peskin; Westcombe’s charcuterie operation; an outpost of Bath’s Landrace bakery; and Ana Ortiz and Tom Bray’s Fire Made, whose South American-style asado barbecues draw lively crowds on weekends.

It’s an eclectic range of modern businesses that furthers the allure of this part of Somerset (the Three Horseshoes in Batcombe and Osip in Bruton are near neighbours). But it’s also testament to the inventiveness required to revive and sustain traditional methods of production. “So many of the so-called sustainable food businesses you see are backed up by other income sources rather than the actual sale of the food,” says Calver. “That’s why we’re so focused on diversifying what we do, so everything is used.” Richard Godwin


Brighton's beer gardens, rooftops and decks

There are sea views from the wraparound terrace at Babble, an industrial-chic cafe-restaurant from Brighton brewery Bison Beer atop the new Hove Beach Park development. Former 64 Degrees chef Sam Lambert’s menu includes slow-cooked pork taco with Tajin mayo, addictive slow-baked twice-fried “crispy tatties” spiked with chilli vinegar, and what might be Brighton’s best burger. Babble is sister to Bison Beach Bar @ Sea Lanes, a decked bar with booths, brunch (from Fika) and barbecue (from Wood x Coal).

Spend an afternoon on the sun-trap terrace at the Flint House in Brighton’s Lanes; order the cloud-like sweetcorn fritters and a Kyoto collins (sake, elderflower liqueur, raspberry, soda) or a glass of locally made Ridgeview Bloomsbury fizz.

In boho Kemptown, join locals at Namo X in the Sidewinder pub’s large garden. Lampang-born chef Bookie Mitchell cooks Thai food including gangkua moo grob (crisp pork belly with curry sauce, makrut, kale and chillies). Andy Lynes


Escape to the Rat Inn, Northumberland

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A Top 50 Gastropubs regular, this historic village inn near Hexham serves fast-changing, seasonal menus which, in dishes of, for example, potted Craster kippers or Burntshieldhaugh Farm pork loin chop with chorizo and white bean stew, make deft, gutsy use of fine Northumbrian produce. On sunny days, as a bonus, you can eat in the Rat’s neat, flower-bedecked terraced garden, which commands awesome views across the Tyne Valley. Tony Naylor


Try Baltic seafood on London’s canals

Mustafa Goksen moored up at Old Ford Lock. Photographed by Suki Dhanda

Mustafa Goksen moored up at Old Ford Lock. Photographed by Suki Dhanda

I’d love to tell you exactly where one of London’s best hidden gems is located, but it changes every few weeks. Balik Ekmek Londra floats up and down the capital’s waterways – one day it might be in Enfield, the next in Hackney (find it on Instagram, @balticseafood). Unsurprisingly, it’s popular with London’s bargees, says owner Mustafa Goksen.

There are trays of fried calamari, garlicky mussels and seafood casseroles. The star? The mackerel sandwich (balik ekmek), based on a popular Istanbul street food, its soft baguette loaded with crunchy salad, onions, gherkin, rocket and a spicy-dusted mackerel fillet. Few things in life are better than eating one canalside on a sunny day. Tomé Morrissy-Swan


The bakery jewel of Scotland's north coast

Wing Mon Cheung and Niall Furlong of Cereal. Photographed by Katherine Anne Rose

Wing Mon Cheung and Niall Furlong of Cereal. Photographed by Katherine Anne Rose

Along the rugged fringe of Scotland’s north coast, locals and travellers alike are celebrating the revival of Burr’s of Tongue, a historic trading post that once fed and fuelled the greater area. Now this beautiful all-wood venue is home to Cereal, a bakery and bookshop run by Wing Mon Cheung and Niall Furlong, who have built a strong emphasis on locality. “We wanted to create a place where the community could come to all year round,” says Furlong, “We love seeing people bump into [friends] they maybe haven’t seen in a month or more.”

The couple, who come from noted careers in baking and coffee (respectively), have filled this welcoming space with books that share their own thoughtful relationship with our landscape and its natural larder. These sensibilities are evident on the bakery counter, where Wing Mon has used only Scottish wholegrain flours and local seasonal produce, and the enticing display includes the likes of Orkney bere barley and Brazil nut shortbread, venison sausage rolls with brown sauce, and tomato tarts with crowdie (a Scottish soft cheese). Once you fill up inside, take the short stroll down to the Kyle of Tongue, stunning home to castle ruins, 360-degree vistas, and pristine undisturbed beaches. Ben Mervis


A taste of Basque country in Manchester

It was flamenco guitar that drew music student Joe Botham to Spain in the early 2000s, but the food would change his life. The now chef became obsessed with regional Spanish cooking, and latterly the “elevated, still rustic” Basque cuisine that inspired Baratxuri, his restaurant at Manchester venue Exhibition. “I’d blag my way into every kitchen,” recalls Botham of research trips to eat tortilla at Bilbao’s Kirol or txuleton steaks at San Sebastian’s Bar Nestor.

At Baratxuri, that passion for every element of the region’s food – from precise pintxos to the Basques’ live-fire cooking traditions – produces some of the best Basque-inspired dishes you will eat this side of the Bay of Biscay. Highlights: tortilla, burnt cheesecake and bacalao pil pil, which Botham says is his favourite: “The technique took me ages to master.” Tony Naylor


Worthing: unsung hero of the south coast

Over the past few years, Worthing has emerged from the shadow of its south-coast neighbour, Brighton, as a food and drink destination in its own right. “There’s loads of independent restaurants, bars, distilleries and microbreweries. It’s how Brighton felt when I was working there a few years ago,” says chef Johnny Stanford, who will relocate his British produce-led restaurant Tern from Worthing Pier to a new, larger location later in the summer. Until then, he’ll continue to serve a seven-course tasting menu, including crab with sea buckthorn and carrot, and an all-British wine list and beers from Merakai Brewing Co (who runs its own bar, the Tasting Room, in town).

Former Smoking Goat head chef Aaron Dalton relocated from London to Worthing to open Four in a self-built extension to his home on a residential street. Dalton specialises in open-fire cooking and serves multi-course tasting menus that might pair pork with acorn spatzle or smoked eel with apple.

Worthing has plenty of more casual dining options too. Feast on local seafood, including whole dressed crab on the seafront terrace at Crab Shack, or sample authentic Mexican food, perhaps goat birria and pibil pork tacos, at the nearby Saltio, where the signature cocktails include Smoking Star, made with mezcal, Aperol, passion fruit, lime and pineapple. Perch on the Pier offers all-day dining in an elegant double-height space with gallery floor, chandeliers, panoramic sea views and a crowd-pleasing menu that includes fish and chips, black lobster and crab ravioli. Plus there’s quality pizza right on the beach at sister restaurant Perch on the Parade. Andy Lynes


Licence to grill: barbecues go electric

Could this be the end for that classic British barbecue tradition: swearing despairingly at charcoal that refuses to light? This summer, Lakeland and John Lewis have reported notable sales spikes for electric barbecues which (compact, fast-heating to high, even temperatures and often capable of giving foods a smoky edge, using wood pellets) are temptingly convenient. Purists will stick to charcoal but, particularly in smaller gardens, electric is surging. Tony Naylor


Home comforts: staycation cooking

For city dwellers seeking a sense of the seaside, Emily Scott’s third cookbook is a fitting way to kickstart a staycation. Home Shores: 100 Simple Fish Recipes to Cook at Home (Hardie Grant, £30) is inspired by Scott’s life on the Cornish coast and her belief that preparing and cooking seafood needn’t be intimidating. “Making things straightforward and uncomplicated,” she writes, “is key.” We tried the prawn tacos – a spicy, garlicky addition to the barbecue, finished with a dollop of tarragon mayo. The kids enjoyed helping with the sardine margherita: carefully remove the lids of tins of sardines in escabeche, tear and push miniature mozzarella balls and olives (optional) between the fish, bake until caramelised and serve with buttered sourdough, preferably outside, for an easy lunch or snack. Hayley Myers


A chef to travel for – William Gleave, Margate

William Gleave at Sargasso. Photograph by Suki Dhanda

William Gleave at Sargasso. Photograph by Suki Dhanda

Nowhere has a better view of Margate’s seaside diorama, from its ferris wheel to its tidal pool to its flotilla of inflatables, than a picnic table outside Sargasso on the harbour arm, where salt spray hurtles over the sea wall when the wind is up.

“I loved the idea of somewhere right on the sea, focusing on the idea of really simple seafood dishes,” says chef-patron William Gleave. “I guess I’m trying to emulate the feeling of being on holiday.”

Best known for drawing crowds at P Franco and Bright in Hackney, east London, and a bright but all-too-brief stint at Hill & Szrok, Gleave is looking forward to his first Margate summer since joining Ed Wilson and Josie Stead at their coastal-inspired wine bar in January.

“I love it,” he says. “It reminds me a lot of east London, in this kind of hedonistic, fun way. It’s young and open-minded. As soon as the sun’s out, it changes. It feels a bit hectic, the energy, but then you see the quiet side during the week.”

Holidays in Spain, Italy, Devon and Cornwall are “always a massive source of inspiration” for Gleave, and will show up at Sargasso this summer in nicoise salad, grilled sardines and mackerel, and wild sea bass if local fisherman Kevin Castro is offering it. “The older I get the more I like things done really simply,” says Gleave. “I like the idea of it being a wine bar with really good food rather than a destination restaurant.”

William Gleave picks three UK chefs he’d travel for ...

Stephen Harris at the Sportsman, Seasalter, Kent “I have a huge amount of respect for him. I’ve probably been there once a year over the past 10 years. It’s so unassuming but the food really does say a lot about time and place.”

Giuseppe Belvedere at Leo’s, Clapton, London “It isn’t necessarily a special trip because I’ve been there loads but the connection Pep has to food and craftsmanship always make it such a memorable meal.”

Pam Brunton at Inver, Scotland “I haven’t been yet but the location looks stunning. I’d love to make the journey up there and eat her food.” Kate Guest


Ice pick: the best cones are in Beddgelert, Wales

Located in a cute, buzzy village in Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), ice-cream parlour Glaslyn brings visiting hillwalkers to peaks of pleasure. Made with a tweaked gelato recipe and small-batch artisan machinery, its ice-cream contains many high-quality ingredients you might expect (local milk, Italian 100% pistachio paste, Halen Môn salted caramel) along with one you might not. Welsh butter is used like cream in the mix. The result? Luscious, thick ice-creams whose flavours sing pure and true. Tony Naylor

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