Head southwest from central Madrid to find an unassuming corner where historic architectural gems such as Ermita de Santa MarÃa La Antigua, a 13th-century Mudéjar church, are found among industrial garages and factories. The area is one of the city’s 21 districts but it’s the upper end – by the Manzanares river – that has people talking. Home to artists converting warehouses into studios, the area’s cultural diversity means classic Spanish restaurants such as Casa de Los Minutejos and Casa Enriqueta coexist with Latin-American favourites El Rondador and CevicherÃa Rokoto.
La Capa
Carabanchel’s most talked-about new restaurant, previously an age-old tapas spot. The original stainless-steel bar and wood panelling has been polished, and the new range of dishes are straightforward and comforting. lacapa.madrid
Sabrina Amrani Editions
Art dealer Sabrina Amrani, whose gallery occupies a vast industrial nave, has opened a space next door dedicated to lighter-weight acquisitions. Browse gin designed by Malagasy artist Joël Andrianomearisoa, fans by Chant Avedissian, or a new book by Pakistan’s Wardha Shabbir. instagram.com/sabrinaamranieditions
Benveniste Contemporary
A publishing house devoted to intaglio printmaking. Pop in to see craftspeople at work in the factory, or view rotating exhibitions in the gallery space. benveniste.com/
Bar Merinas
For an aperitif with character, head to this bar housed in a former ultramarinos (a classic grocery store that’s having a trendy resurgence). There’s speciality coffee, salads, smoked-sardine tacos and sandwiches. DJ sets and art round off the all-in-one offering. instagram.com/merinas_bar
Cervezas Patanel
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For a taste of Carabanchel in liquid form, this bar-meets-brewery run by four local beer-lovers produces craft brews which are helping put the neighbourhood on the map. Signature pours (now found all over the city) include the light Golden Ale and a floral, citrussy Ipañel. cervezaspatanel.com
La Refiná
This AndalucÃa-inspired modern tavern serves shrimp fritters and salmorejo cold tomato soup. Soak up a balmy evening on the outdoor terrace, or settle in for Friday-night flamenco. larefina.es/escoge-tu-mesa