48 hours in Norway’s fjord-adjacent second city
Bergen, Norway’s second city, and a rainy one at that, bills itself as the gateway to the fjords, sitting as it does between seven mountains. For the adventurous, the so-called King and Queen of the Fjords, Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord, both lie within easy reach, as does the famed Flåm railway, one of the world’s steepest railway lines that travels through mountains, waterfalls and 20 tunnels. But picturesque Bergen is no mere stepping stone. The colourful, leaning gables of the wooden houses at Unesco-listed Bryggen wharf conjure up its seafaring history and there are medieval alleys, art museums and New Nordic cuisine to be enjoyed. Steel yourself for high prices, pack a coat and find out what this compact, culture-rich city with Viking roots has to offer.
Friday 4pm: Go for a stroll Historic Bryggen wharf, where postcard-perfect timber buildings line the harbour, offers a vivid glimpse into Bergen’s past as a bustling Hanseatic trading post.
6pm: Check in Step back in time at the 37-room Hanseatiske Hotel (en.dethanseatiskehotel.no), set back from the wharf. For self-catering in labyrinthine old Bergen, try the charming, centrally located Knøsesmauet Apartment. On a budget? The Hostel Montana offers views from the slopes of Mount Ulriken, Bergen’s highest mountain.
7pm: Middag (Dinner!) A short walk up cobbled streets sits Spisekroken (literally “dining nook”) – known for its gourmet veal, goat and Fjellblå blue-cheese ice-cream. Its tasting menu is good value… by Norwegian standards.
Saturday 10am: Climb 908 steps That’s how many there are in the Stoltzekleiven – a 36% gradient trail, leading to the summit of Sandviksfjellet. Each September, fitness freaks race up in under eight minutes; mere mortals take about half an hour. The vista at the 1,368ft summit top justifies the toil.
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12pm: Canoes and chocolate Not up for a hike? The Fløibanen funicular whisks you up to the viewpoint atop Fløyen. After the obligatory photos, continue for 10 minutes to lake Skomakerdiket for free canoe use. Afterwards, cultivate Koselig (a Norwegian sense of comfort and wellbeing) with soup or hot chocolate at Fløistuen kafé (floyen.no).
15.30pm: Visit a stave church The ornate Fantoft Stave Church is a 15-minute drive from town. Fantoft was rebuilt in the 1990s after arson attacks by members of Norway’s black metal scene, in painstaking detail. Open until mid-September.
6pm: Dine “neo-Fjordic” Bergen punches above its weight on the food scene. This year, Omakase by Sergey Pak and Gaptrast were both awarded Michelin stars, joining at the top table the ‘neo-Fjordic cuisine’ of Lysverket, situated within the Kode 4 art museum. Prepare to pay a few thousand krone.
9pm: Time for a beer Don’t be put off by the fact Google Maps calls Victoria café and pub an “offal barbecue restaurant”; grab a fireside beer, then head to Dr Wiesener for an aquavit…
Sunday 7am: Take the plunge Try the heated seawater pool at Nordnes Sjøbad (nordnessjobad.no), where locals sip black coffee in paper cups, lounge on the grass or take a sauna.
Noon: Go to Grieg’s Take a short bus or light rail toward Troldhaugen, former residence of legendary Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.
15.30pm: Relish a reindeer Grab a bite from Trekroneren hot dog kiosk, a favourite since 1948. The daring might opt for the reindeer sausage.
5pm: Praise cod Try Persetorsk, cod pressed in a sugar and salt solution, a dish resurrected at Bien Basar by chef Gard Haugland, who campaigned for a national holiday for this “forgotten gem”. If you’re visiting Bergen on a Thursday or Sunday, try Raspeballer – dense potato dumplings with lardons, sausage, ham hock and mashed swede
In brief
Stay In one of the 37 unique rooms at the Hanseatiske Hotel (en.dethanseatiskehotel.no), situated within the walls of the Unesco-listed Bryggen wharf
Eat Persetorsk at Bien Basar (bienbar.no); it’s a fish dish with its own national holiday
Don’t miss Panoramic views atop one of Bergen’s seven mountains – whether you hike or take the easy way up!
Photograph: Getty
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