Make the most of 48 hours in this ancient cultural hub
Extraordinarily overlooked, Ravenna in Emilia-Romagna is a city rich in art, culture and family-run trattoria. Less visited than Rome and Florence, this former Roman and Byzantine capital by the Adriatic has eight Unesco World Heritage Sites, with dazzling Byzantine mosaics, charming piazzas and a pedestrianised centre. Literature lovers will be drawn to Dante’s tomb and the recently opened Byron museum in the baroque Palazzo Guiccioli. Easy to walk or bike around, as many do, Ravenna has vibrant restaurants, a lively aperitivo scene and a palatial covered market where you can watch fresh pasta being made. Best of all, it’s not crowded, so you get to enjoy it like a local.
Friday, 1pm: Head for Passatelli (osteriapassatelli.it), a contemporary trattoria in an old cinema offering all sorts of local specialities – the ‘Passatelli cured meats big chop board with Piedmont flatbreads’ is particularly tasty.
2pm: Espresso time Stop for a post-lunch coffee in one of the many al fresco cafés lining Piazza del Popolo, Ravenna’s ornate central square.
3pm: Off to market A few metres away is Mercato Coperto, Ravenna’s oldest covered food market, open daily, and the best place to buy cured meats and freshly rolled pasta.
4pm: Hit the shops If fashion not food is what you’re after, the side streets around Via Cavour, five minutes away, are lined with boutiques and independent shops.
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5pm: Aperitivo time Head for Mowgli, also on Via Cavour, a cocktail bar with an elegant courtyard where you can sip your Hugo spritz at a reasonably priced £6 (@mowgliravenna).
6pm: Rest up at your hotel The Palazzo Bezzi (palazzobezzi.it) is a stone’s throw from Ravenna’s main mosaic sites. Enjoy its spa, then lounge on their panoramic roof terrace with pretty views of the city.
Saturday, 9am: Go for gold Step inside Basilica di San Vitale with its dazzling mosaic interior dating back to the fifth century. Close by is the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia with a stunning gold starry ceiling.
12pm: Museum hop Head for MAR (Ravenna Art Museum), a 15-minute walk away, for a contemporary twist with its collection of modern mosaics from around the world.
1pm: Stop for lunch Just around the corner is Al Cerchio (@trattoria_al_cerchio), a family-run gem where you can enjoy cappelletti di concerto – stuffed pasta in a cream sauce.
3pm: Walk in Byron’s footsteps Nearby is the recently opened Byron museum (museibyronedelrisorgimento.it), housed in the grand Palazzo Guiccioli. Byron lived here with his lover Teresa Guiccioli, and her husband, too. Their affair comes alive through this collection of memorabilia, letters and poetry.
5pm: Take a stroll Head through the winding streets and hidden squares around Byron’s museum, ending up at Dante’s tomb, a neoclassical monument to the great poet.
6pm: Aperitivo time once again Sit under the trees and enjoy a vodka-infused Cabiria Espresso at Cabiria Wine Bar (cabiriawinebar.it).
7pm: Dine like a king Head for Osteria Enoteca Ca’ de Vèn (cadeven.it), just five minutes away, serving up hearty traditional pasta in a 15th-century palace.
Sunday, 9am: Head for the beach Pineta di Classe, 20 minutes out of town by a taxi, is a sprawling forest where you can cycle and horse ride. Through the pines you can reach the beach at Lido de Classe.
1pm: A final lunch Nothing beats a freshly made spaghetti alle vongole overlooking the sea. Gustonfino Beach bar does not disappoint (gustofinobeach.it).
In brief
Eat Lunch at Passatelli will introduce you to many delicious local favourites (osteriapassatelli.it)
Stay The Palazzo Bezzi has a relaxing spa and panoramic roof terrace with views of the city (palazzobezzi.it)
Visit The newly opened Byron museum is bursting with interest about the poet’s colourful life
More information at emiliaromagnaturismo.it
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