Oranges are a constant joyful presence in my kitchen, carnelian peels beaming sun-soaked vibes from whichever corner I’ve stacked them in. I live for the visible spritz of a fruit mid-strip, the area around me a jumble of bobbled skins and sticky juice. I zest, squeeze, slice and roast whenever I feel the need for a burst of an oranges’ juddering verve, which is often.
All of this is to say that, actually, I’ve become addicted. I submerge the fruit in salt and juice like making preserved lemons, to use in tagines, tacos and salad dressings, and I’m exploring the possibilities of condiments: hot sauces, drizzles and syrups. Two of my favourite renditions are a variation on the spicy Japanese condiment yuzu kosho (swapping hard-to-find yuzu for orange or mandarin zest) and a fun, fragrant steer on everyone’s go-to topper: chilli crisp, infusing the oil with orange before pouring it, sizzling, over a host of crispy garlic, onion and spices.
‘I zest, squeeze, slice and roast whenever I feel the need for verve, which is often’
‘I zest, squeeze, slice and roast whenever I feel the need for verve, which is often’
I slice the fruit into salads with lightly pickled, peppercorn-flecked fennel, or layer strips fastidiously with a crudo of white fish. Barely a pork roast happens without a few fist-crushed halves nestled in the tray, their fragrance scenting the kitchen and complementing the natural sweetness of the meat. And, of course, there are desserts. While I’m not keen on fruit with chocolate in general, orange and chocolate is an instinctive pairing, perhaps due to the natural citrus oils.
Join me in celebrating the fierce glow of this special fruit, endlessly capable of sluicing away sluggishness. Aside from the bitter pith and pips, each part of the orange has qualities to harness. Whether preserved for the future like glimmers under glass or swooping in with a hard-to-rival freshness, there’s always room in my kitchen for these high-energy orbs.
Recipes: