Fuchsia Dunlop’s Chinese noodle recipes

Shanghai noodles with dried shrimp and spring onion oil
Kai yang cong you ban mian, a typical Shanghai recipe, is easy to make and addictively delicious. The combination of fragrant oil and umami soy sauce produces a dish that is so much more than the sum of its parts. It’s also a superb way of using up bunches of spring onions that are past their best: just strip off any dry or withered parts and use what’s left. I eat these noodles constantly at home for a quick working lunch, perhaps with a fried egg on top and/or a salad on the side. The shrimpy spring onion oil can be made in advance and stored in the fridge, in which case finishing the recipe is almost as fast as making instant noodles. Vegetarians can omit the shrimps and the sauce will still be extremely satisfying. The original recipe is said to have been invented by a street vendor near the City God Temple in Shanghai.

Serves 2 as a light meal
dried shrimps 2 tbsp 
Shaoxing wine 2 tsp 
spring onions 4 
tamari or light soy sauce 4-5 tsp, to taste 
wheat noodles of your choice 200g dried or 300g fresh 
cooking oil 6 tbsp 
salt to taste

Place the dried shrimps in a small bowl with the Shaoxing wine and just enough water to cover them. Leave for about 15 minutes to rehydrate. Smack the spring onions slightly with the side of a cleaver or a rolling pin to loosen them, and then cut evenly into 6-7cm sections. Pour the soy sauce into a serving bowl. Bring a large panful of water to the boil for cooking the noodles.

Heat the oil in a wok over a high flame. Add the spring onions and stir-fry until they are turning a little golden. Drain the shrimps, add them to the wok and continue to stir-fry until the shrimps are golden and the spring onions are browned and wonderfully fragrant, but not burnt. Then set aside this fragrant oil, with the spring onions and shrimps.

Boil the noodles to your liking, then drain and place in the serving bowl. Spoon the spring onions and shrimps and their fragrant oil on top. While the noodles are still piping hot, mix everything together quickly and then serve.

Bacon and egg fried rice noodles
Why not have your bacon and eggs with noodles instead of toast? This recipe is fast and makes a gorgeous breakfast or brunch, perhaps with orange juice and coffee. Rice noodles come in various different forms: mainstream supermarkets sell ready-to-use noodles, while Chinese shops also stock compressed fresh noodles that may require a quick blanching before you cook (check instructions on the packet). Dried rice noodles need to be pre-soaked according to packet instructions.

Serves 1 for a main meal, 2 for a snack.
streaky bacon 3 rashers (75g) 
cooking oil 2 tbsp 
eggs 2, beaten 
rice noodles of your choice 300g fresh or 100g dried (and prepared) 
light soy sauce 2 tsp 
salt and pepper to taste 
spring onion greens 2 tbsp, finely sliced

If necessary, use chopsticks or a clean hand to declump the noodles before you start cooking. Cut the bacon crossways into 1cm strips (removing any rinds).

Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a seasoned wok over a high flame. When the oil is hot, add the egg and stir it rapidly around until barely cooked, but still tender. Tip out of the wok and set aside. Return the wok to a medium flame with the remaining 1 tbsp of oil and the bacon and stir-fry until the bacon smells delicious and is a little golden.

Tip in the noodles and soy sauce, and stir-fry until piping hot. Add the cooked egg and toss everything together, making sure the bacon and egg are well distributed through the noodles. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Before serving, stir through the spring onion greens and give them a brief lick of heat.