We all know a cheese purist; that person who won’t have so much as a cream cracker near their Baron Bigod. This is, on some level, an admirable sentiment. But at this time of year, when cheeseboards abound, it’s nice to make a little effort. While often served at the end of a meal, a thoughtful cheeseboard can also perform as a centrepiece for gatherings with friends and wine, and having a few tricks on hand will make the difference between something average and something memorable.
Well-placed, homemade (yet, crucially, low-effort) accompaniments will complement your cheeses and add visual excitement. What they are depends on your choice of dairy, but as a general rule, intensified fruits such as those roasted or dried work well, as do sprightly pickles and other sour notes, such as tamarind and sumac. A little chilli can bring excitement, should your guests tolerate it, and it’s advisable to have some carbs out, particularly if the cheese is the main event and you’re serving alcohol.
A solo cheese can absolutely be the star of the table (rather a chic move, actually), and it shows confidence in your decision-making and hosting, whether you genuinely have it or not. If you’re serving a range of cheeses, though, why not go all out? Offering guests a board with lots of “bits” to graze on feels generous and impressive. Just don’t tell them how easy it was to put together.
APRICOT AND JALAPENO SODA SCONES
Soda bread feels magical. Made without raising agents, it depends on a chemical reaction between the buttermilk and bicarbonate of soda and is stupendously easy to make. Here, it’s fashioned into little scones studded with sweet nuggets of apricot and the perfume of green chilli running throughout. The scones are best eaten on the day they are made, and are perfect with strong cheddar or nutty comté.
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Makes about 10 small scones
plain flour 250g
bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp
salt a pinch
buttermilk 200ml
honey 1 tsp
dried apricots 75g, chopped
jalapeno or green chilli 1, deseeded and finely chopped
butter 15g, melted
Preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas mark 6.
Combine the plain flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt in a bowl and mix, then make a well in the centre.
Combine the buttermilk, honey, apricots and chilli, and pour into the well, then mix everything quickly using a butter knife. Turn out on to a lightly floured surface, then pat out to a thickness of about 2½cm.
Use a 5cm circular cutter to cut 10 small scones, reshaping the dough as necessary (or cut into small triangles). Bake on a lined tray for 20 minutes or until golden. Brush with the melted butter while warm.
CANDIED OLIVES
These are as surprising as they are delicious, and so simple to make. Simmering stoned olives in sugar syrup renders them sticky-sweet while retaining their natural brininess. A good curveball to throw into a cheeseboard situation, and a talking point for guests. Try them with tart goat’s cheese.
Serves 20
water 300ml
sugar 300ml
green stoned olives 2 x 330g jars, drained
Combine the water and sugar in a frying pan and heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the olives and bring to a simmer, then cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the olives are shiny. Allow to cool, then store for up to 2 months in a jar submerged in their syrup.
QUICK PICKLED FENNEL WITH PINK PEPPERCORNS
This is an easy pickle, which requires nothing beyond a bit of stirring and slicing of the fennel. Pickles such as this need more sugar than most people realise; the result should be gently acidic and moreish rather than mouth-puckering – ideal for cheese. The pink peppercorns add their unique fragrance as well as festive pizazz.
Serves 6
hot tap water 200ml
rice vinegar 100ml
caster sugar 3 tbsp
sea salt 1½ tbsp
pink peppercorns 1 tbsp
fennel 1 bulb, trimmed and finely sliced towards the root end
Combine the water, vinegar, caster sugar, sea salt and peppercorns, and mix until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Transfer to a container, add the fennel and refrigerate for a few hours before serving. The pickle will keep in the fridge for a few days and is particularly good with a creamy blue cheese.
ROASTED GRAPES WITH TAMARIND AND SUMAC
Roasting grapes with tamarind adds a complementary sour note while also blistering the fruit until it collapses, surrendering sweet juice. Serving these on top of soft cheese adds festive drama to the table as the grapes’ purple liquor seeps into the snow-white cheese.
Serves 4
seedless red or black grapes 400g
olive oil 1 tbsp
tamarind paste 1 tbsp
sea salt a large pinch
sumac 1 tsp
Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7.
Place the grapes on a baking tray on their vine. Combine the olive oil and tamarind with the sea salt and pour over the grapes, then rub with your hands to ensure they’re well coated. Roast for 20-30 minutes or until the grapes are soft and burst in places. They will leach juice as they cool. Sprinkle with the sumac to serve.
STAR ANISE AND CHILLI MACERATED CLEMENTINES
Citrus season has arrived, bringing some much-needed colour to the table. Here, the glossy segments pop against sliced red chilli. Serve these with robust cheeses such as aged cheddar, pecorino or gouda. They’re also fantastic with ham or spooned over vanilla ice-cream.
Serves 6
clementines 3, peeled and segments separated, removing as much pith as possible
water 50ml
star anise 1, bashed into a few pieces
red chilli 1, finely sliced
caster sugar 2 tbsp
Combine everything in a shallow bowl and stir well. Leave for at least 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
BBQ Days, BBQ Nights by Helen Graves is published by Hardie Grant (£22). Order a copy from The Observer Shop. Delivery charges may apply