Nigel Slater’s kitchen diary: time for a sweet, aromatic green bean dal

Photographs by Jonathan Lovekin

I don’t need much of a push to get into autumn cooking, but there are a few things left to enjoy before I finally succumb to putting a pumpkin in my shopping bag. There are some enormous courgettes to be dealt with (baked with tomatoes, garlic and basil) and the last of the green-fleshed “summer” squashes (stuffed with breadcrumbs, anchovies and thyme) to roast. This is also the moment to deal with the last of the huge tomatoes at the farmers’ market, those whoppers that are so juicy when stuffed and baked.

Nothing quite marks the turn towards autumn like the gift of a marrow. I’m grateful, of course, but there is always a touch of “What the hell am I going to do with this?” that goes hand-in-hand with such kind offerings. The truth is, I rather like the gentle, watery flesh of a marrow – tough when not stuffed with mince or covered in cheese sauce. That is when a marrow weeps for itself. They are probably best sliced, seeded and sautéed, seasoned with basil leaves, lemon juice and crisp, toasted breadcrumbs.

In a way, this is almost the perfect time for the cook. There are still the joys of late-summer fruit about and there are the first of the cool-weather vegetables. I may not want to see a brussels sprout yet, but the soft-leaved, dusky cabbages are in fine fettle. The last few green beans are a treat before they disappear for the year. We may have lost the local cherries and damsons, but there are plenty of fine late strawberries to be had, and some plump and glossy blackberries; even a few late plums for the last pie. The autumn-fruiting raspberries – perhaps the most flavoursome of all – are here now, too. The apples will never be better than they are right now, bright-tasting and crunchy, I’m currently feasting on them, looking forward to the new season and all its joys.

A light and aromatic dal full of warmth and freshness.
Serves 4. Ready in an hour.

moong dal (dried split mung beans) 250g
ground turmeric 1 tsp
spring onions 6
groundnut oil 2 tbsp
cumin seeds 1 tsp
black mustard seeds 2 tsp
garlic 3 cloves
ginger 1 x 35g piece
chillies 1-2, small, hot
runner beans 200g
climbing beans 150g
sugar snap peas a handful
coconut milk 400ml
lime leaves 4-5
coriander leaves a handful

Put the dal into a sieve and rinse under running water, then tip into a large saucepan with the ground turmeric and cover with a good litre of water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat a little and leave to simmer for about 25 minutes, until the lentils are soft enough to crush with the back of a spoon. There should be roughly 1cm of water left above the dal. Once cooked, season with a teaspoon of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper and set aside.

While the dal is cooking, roughly chop the spring onions. Warm the groundnut oil in a deep-sided frying pan and cook the spring onions until they start to soften and darken – about 5 minutes – then stir in the cumin and black mustard seeds. Keep the heat fairly low. Peel and grate the garlic and ginger into the onions. Finely chop and stir in the chopped chillies and continue cooking for a couple of minutes, then set aside.

Bring a medium-sized saucepan of water to the boil. Salt it lightly.

Top and tail the runner and climbing beans, removing any tough strings along the edges. Cut the runner beans into short diagonal lengths. (It will also be easier to eat if you cut the climbing beans in half lengthways, though this is not essential.) Cook the runner beans in the boiling water for about 6 minutes, then scoop them out with a draining spoon and transfer the sauce. Cook the climbing beans and sugar snap peas in the boiling water for 4-5 minutes, then drain.

Return the moong dal to the heat and bring to the boil, watching carefully. Let it bubble until the water has almost all evaporated, stirring from time to time. Lower the heat. Give the dal a good beating, with either a wooden spoon or a whisk, to fluff it up a little. The texture should be soft, velvety and soupy. Stir in the spring onion mixture followed by the coconut milk. Scrunch the lime leaves in your hand and drop them into the sauce. Cut the lime in half; squeeze the juice and add it, together with the drained beans. Simmer for a few minutes, then check the seasoning and stir in the coriander leaves. Offer spoons rather than knives and forks.

• If you can’t get hold of runner beans, this recipe is good with other vegetables. Broccoli, the long-stemmed sort, can be used instead, as could asparagus in season. Crisp white cabbage is a definite possibility, cooked briefly in boiling water before adding to the coconut sauce.