Unless you’re a sucker for Swiss chocolate, a lover of horology (that’s pricey watches, to you and me) or a fan of wealth management, you might feel there’s no earthly reason to visit Geneva. But this small Swiss city of 200,000-odd inhabitants, surrounded by the Alps, shouldn’t be overlooked. Its previously unadventurous dining scene has taken off in recent years, thanks to a handful of inventive chefs and restaurateurs (many of whom hail from over the French border, a stone’s throw away), while its art district is home to top-notch independent galleries. Two days is ample time to enjoy what the city has to offer – and here’s how to spend the time.
Friday 12pm: Find a perch for people-watching
Drop your bags – we recommend the Hôtel Bristol, for its central location and friendly staff – then make a beeline for La Clémence, a cafe/bar on the Place du Bourg-de-Four in the Old Town. This old-school institution is the perfect spot for people-watching, so wrap up (they provide blankets) and sit outside, coffee in hand.
2pm: Wander around the Old Town
Spend the afternoon strolling around Geneva’s Vieille Ville, which sits on a hill south of the Lac Léman. Head to Auer for chocolate, Letu Books for art and design books, and Les Enfants Terribles for homeware. The International Museum of the Reformation is also worth a visit – and more fun than it sounds.
7pm: Sample typical Swiss fare
After a verre de vin at wine bar Jacques, head to the Restaurant Les Armures, which serves the city’s best traditional Swiss fare. Yoan Defontis, who has been the maitre d' for 20 years, recommends a fondue followed by the Coupe Armures ice cream. “It’s not a light menu,” he concedes. “But is it a Swiss menu? Of course!”
10pm: Grab a nightcap
Still going? Join the revellers for late-night drinks on Rue Henri-Blanvalet, one of the few streets that remain lively into the small hours.
Saturday 10am: Explore Carouge
Head to this village-like neighbourhood, south of the centre, which is popular with creative types, and home to indie shops. Try Le Comptoir Gourmand for foodie gifts, Philippe Pascoët for chocolate, and L’Atelier de la Cire for candles.
1pm: Tuck into a tasty lunch
Wander north to CoinCoin, a restaurant that offers a superb lunch menu. Head chef Valentin Pouzet is serving up a contemporary take on French cuisine using seasonal ingredients.
3pm: Get your art fix
CoinCoin is on the edge of the art district, the Quartier des Bains. Wander north up the Rue des Bains and stop in at Galerie Xippas, Galerie Lange + Pult, and the recently opened Wilde.
5pm: Raise a glass
Join the locals at La Ferblanterie, a nondescript bar on Rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine serving chilled draft beer. On clear days the benches outside catch the last rays of sun.
7pm: Dine at Bleu Nuit
It’s now just a short hop to Bleu Nuit, one of Geneva’s best restaurants. Head chef Justine Montessuit delivers a constantly changing menu of dishes that look simple but pack serious flavour.
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10pm: Cocktail hour
Just around the corner is La Verre à Monique, a charming bar that’s a favourite among the local arty crowd.
Sunday 10am: Take a dip?
Head to Bains des Pâquis, a public swimming area overlooking the lake. If you’re a glutton for punishment, take a plunge (there are at least saunas for warming up, post-dunk), or do as the locals do and pick up a coffee from the waterside cafe.
Sunday 12pm: A last hurrah
Before your train to the airport, stop at Le Bologne, a bistro on a quiet backstreet founded by local restaurateur Florian Le Bouhec. The menu is eclectic, inspired by both European and Asian cuisines; the wine list is extensive.
IN BRIEF
Stay at…
The Hôtel Bristol, which is well located next to the lake and cheaper than other options in this generally pricey city.
Eat at…
CoinCoin, a restaurant on the edge of Geneva’s art district with bright interiors by local firm HertelTan Architects. It gets vibey in the evening, but the lunch menu is better value.
Don’t miss…
Carouge, a charming neighbourhood with a sleepy, village-like atmosphere and dozens of cafes, boutiques and inviting bars.
Photograph by Olivier Rateau/Getty
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