48 hours in… Thessaloniki

Named UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2021, Greece’s second city hugs the northern tip of the Thermaic Gulf and combines the charm of being compact and easy to explore with the cultural attractions, creative cuisines, and sheer chutzpah of bigger sister Athens – only without the crowds. it’s a student city that contains the Balkans’ largest university campus, so you can expect plenty of affordable venues and lively nightlife. A new metro system is also making it easier to get around. As long as you’re prepared to cram in plenty of new experiences, sampling the best of Thessaloniki in 48 hours is perfectly doable.

Friday 1pm: Start your stay with iconic street food snacks On main square, Aristotelous, framed by its statue of city hero Alexander the Great, seek out one of the street vendors selling traditional drink salepi made from the tubers of wild orchids. Creamy drink in hand, stroll over to Kapani’s buzzing produce market to sample the region’s fresh farm produce: fruity kefalotyri cheese, koulouri bread rings, or caramelized milk pudding kazan dibi.

2.30pm: Walk off lunch
For the perfect postprandial stroll, follow Thessaloniki’s two mile-long seafront promenade. It’s bookended by the 15th-century White Tower – you can climb to the top for spectacular views over the storied Thermaikos Gulf, and the city’s harbour which is home to four fascinating museums, including a contemporary art venue and a space dedicated to the history of Greek cinema. This is also where you’ll find Greek artist George Zongolopoulos’ famous Umbrellas installation.

5pm: Indulge in some shopping therapy
Just behind the seafront Tsimiski Street is lined with brand-name shops. Alternatively, forage for vintage clothing or vinyl records in indie boutiques three metro-stops away in the Panepistimiou district.

7pm: Sip in style
As the sun begins to descend over the Thermaikos Gulf, grab a seat at stylish speakeasy Le Cercle de Salonique and order one of their luscious cocktails.

8pm: Sample the vibe
Once home to the city’s Red Light District the cobbled alleys of the Ladadika district, named for the ladi (oil) that was once sold here, are packed with cool tavernas housed in repurposed warehouses. Make a beeline for Full tou Meze where meze snacks ranging from velvety yellow split pea dip fava, to spicy cheese dish tyrokafteri are dished up along with carafes of local wine.

Saturday 9am: Pay respects to pastry
Thessaloniki is the birthplace of custard-crammed pastry treat bougatsa. Sample the best at Bougatsa Bantis, where they make everything, including the filo pastry, by hand.

10am: Set out to explore
Take the hop-on hop-off bus to visit frescoes and mosaics in the UNESCO-listed Church of Agios Dimitrios, Emperor Galerius’ 4th-century AD triumphal gate, the Archaeological Museum whose exhibits date back to Roman times, and other archaeological sites scattered across the city.

3pm: Indulge in wellness
With its magical marble clad steam room The Polis Hammam in the Makedonia Palace Hotel is the perfect place to unwind with an exfoliating body scrub or a face mask made with mineral-rich Dead Sea mud.

5pm: Head for the heights
Take bus 50 from the White Tower and hop off at Ano Poli (stop nine).

5.40pm: Explore the historic upper city
Known as ‘the city above the city,’ Ano Poli is one of the few areas that survived a fire which burned down most of Thessaloniki in 1917. Admire panoramic views to Mt. Olympus, before strolling alleys lined with historic buildings leading to the old castle Yedi Kule.

8pm: Hang out with locals
End your day on a high note with wine-stewed rooster pastitsada and other homecooked dishes at Nea Folia, a traditional koutouki taverna where they serve up local fare to the sound of traditional folk music rebetiko.

Sunday 9am: Coffee time
Enjoy lazy Sunday vibes with breakfast at popular coffee shop Koukous.

10am: Push the boat out
Boats leaving from the White Tower will take you to a gaggle of sandy beaches. Alternatively, taking a three-hour cruise to see the sacred monasteries of Mount Athos is the perfect way to end your stay.

In brief:

Eat Traditional custardy cream-crammed pastry bougatsa and crispy sister snack trigona at Bougatsa Bantis near the Panagia Faneromenis church.

Stay At Makedonia Palace Hotel, a luxurious historic spa hotel right on the seafront.

Gasp At magnificent marble reliefs on the 4th-century AD Arch of Galerius.