It’s no surprise that Vienna frequently tops quality of life surveys. Easy to navigate, thanks to its superior transport system, it is affordable, walkable, overflowing with art galleries, concert halls and art nouveau coffee houses. As elegant as Paris, it’s also as cool as Berlin, thanks to a new generation of clubs, bars and restaurants popping up all over the city. This modern scene happily co-exists alongside the fin-de-sièrcle Vienna of Klimt and Freud, making it all the richer for a weekend getaway.
Friday midday: Check in at the Altstadt
Small and elegant, the Altstadt Vienna is heaven for art lovers; each of the 45 rooms are designed by artists, architects and fashion designers. Ask the resident art manager for a tour - there are hundreds of art pieces here, many of them by Austrian artists - and afterwards relax in one of the grand salon rooms for coffee and home-made cake.
1pm: French fancy
Head to District 9, rich in art nouveau architecture, it’s a perfect introduction to the city. For a taste of Little Paris, enjoy a spot of lunch at La Mercerie. Sit outside people-watching under one of their pretty fringed umbrellas with a cheese platter and a glass of wine - make space for one of their legendary chocolate eclairs, freshly baked on-site.
3pm: Hit the shops
Walk off lunch with a browse on Servitengasse, just around the corner, lined with independent shops, such as Xocolat chocolatier, Werkhaus Wagner for ceramics and objet d’art, and Alterwaren & Antiquitaten Ganz, a treasure trove of 20th-century relics and vintage jewellery.
4pm: On the couch
A short stroll away you’ll find one of Vienna’s most famous addresses, Berggasse 19. Freud’s old apartment and the birthplace of psychoanalysis, it’s a fascinating glimpse into his working life. His study, waiting room and living quarters have all been preserved.
6pm: Cocktail hour
Hop over to the Hoxton Vienna Cayo Coco, a slice of rooftop glamour specialising in Cuban cocktails. Enjoy 360-degree views of the city along with their signature tipple, the Negroni Tropica.
7.30pm: Veggie heaven
For a taste of modern Viennese cuisine, buzzy Café Kandl, in District 7, draws a younger crowd; offering twists on classic dishes and sharing plates with plenty of vegetarian options. Their ‘faux’ gras made from mushrooms is a highlight.
Saturday 10am: Coffee culture
Start your morning at Café Sperl - one of Vienna’s finest cafes dating back to 1880. Soak up the elegance with a decadent Viennese breakfast of scrambled eggs and kapuziner, a double espresso with plenty of whipped cream.
11am: Walk it off
Explore the city with walking guide Alessandra Brucchietti (Good Vienna Tours) for a whirlwind cultural history tour, from 600 years of the Habsburgs to Mozart, the Second World War and beyond.
12pm: Go big on Klimt
Immerse yourself in the world’s biggest collection of Klimt’s at the Schloss Belvedere. Be seduced by The Kiss but don’t miss other highlights, including Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka.
2pm: Lunch in glasshouse
A quick walk from the Museum Quarter takes you to the delightful Brasserie Palmenhaus, an art nouveau glasshouse in the Hofburg Palace complex. Enjoy a hearty winter stew overlooking the lawns of the Burggarten, perfect for a post-lunch amble.
4pm: Third Man thrills
No other film has immortalised Vienna quite like 1940s film noir The Third Man, starring Orson Welles. The Dritte Mann Museum is overflowing with artefacts, including the sewer grill that Harry Lime wraps his fingers around in a last bid for freedom.
7pm: A classic night out
For a taste of Amadeus, book a front row seat at Musikverein Wien. Sit amid the kitsch splendour of the Golden Hall where classical musicians, in wigs and full costume, regularly perform Mozart and Strauss.
9pm: Go old-school
Savour traditional Viennese cuisine at Skopik & Lohn, a wonderful bistro with linen tablecloths and a cosy mahogany interior. Schnitzel is served with cranberry sauce and potato salad. Switch it up with chocolate ganache and peanut cream for dessert.
Sunday 11am: Get your skates on
Every winter, a glittering ice rink transforms Vienna City Hall Square into a winter wonderland where you can spend a morning gliding along pretty winding skate paths under the trees.
1pm: A final lunch
Hang up your skates and step into Vienna City Hall for a traditional Sunday lunch - roast beef is a favourite - in the 19th-century splendour of basement restaurant Wiener Rathauskeller.
Image: Alamy