To visit York is to live its history. Among the medieval streets and shadowy snickelways is a storybook city of ghosts and Roman soldiers, Viking invasions and Norman conquests. It’s a place where footsteps still patter on timeworn cobbles and boats oscillate between bridges, where live music throbs in creaky taverns and choirs ring through church naves. There’s always something new to discover – a secret courtyard, a trendy wine bar, a roving exhibition. In this way, York can feel a little overwhelming, and you need the advice of a good friend or guide to highlight what to do in the time you have. But once you’ve been, you’ll realise that nowhere else does city breaks quite it.
Friday 1pm: Ease in
Book a Historical Gems tour and walk away armed with all sorts of quirky facts. A VisitYork pass will cover this and most attractions.
2.30pm: Climb the Minster
At York Minster, make for the crypt, Chapter House and vast Great East Window. Book the 275-step climb for dreamy views.
6pm: Dinner and drinks
Order an ale at taxidermy-adorned House of Trembling Madness on Stonegate. Wiggle through Coffee Yard snickelway to Fish & Forest on Grape Lane, a sustainably focused restaurant.
Saturday 9am: Brews on the Ouse
Begin with a cuppa at the Perky Peacock, an eclectically styled family-run café set in 14th-century Barker Tower next to the river.
10am: History and heritage
With a hall of iconic locomotives, York’s Railway Museum is an all-rounder, and free. Afterwards, stroll the city walls to "Bishy Road" (Bishopthorpe Road) for a coffee stop.
12pm: Tower power
Head towards Fossgate, but on the way spend 30 minutes getting to grips with 1,000-years of York’s grisly history at Clifford’s Tower.
1pm: Fuel up on Fossgate
Lunch at bistro-microbakery Black Wheat Club has to be the poached-egg and sauerkraut salt beef with brown-butter hollandaise. The Blue Bell next door is York’s smallest pub and worth a post-lunch pint.
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3pm: Townhouse tour
Meander to Treasurer’s House. Book a tour of the house to learn more about wealthy collector Frank Green and his notable guests.
4pm: Make for the museum
If you hurry, you can squeeze in a visit to Yorkshire Museum (last entries at 4pm), followed by a wander around the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey.
Sunday 10am: York Castle Museum
Strings to this museum’s bow include a recreated Victorian street with original store fronts; a nostalgia-evoking 60s street; and old prison buildings dating to 1705.
1pm: Shop before you pop off
Visit Heppni Bakeri for one of their irresistible pastries. Finish with a wander through the Shambles and food market and pick something up for the train home – perhaps a Guy Fawkes sarnie from Shambles Kitchen or North African street snacks from Los Moros.
Image by Getty
In brief
Stay No 1 by GuestHouse, York, a lovely regency townhouse hotel in Clifton.
Eat Lunch at Black Wheat Club, an independent bistro-microbakery on Fossgate.
Don’t miss York Castle Museum. This award-winning attraction walks you through the social history of Yorkshire.
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