In the neighbourhood: Croix-Rousse, Lyon

The former silkworkers’ district of Lyon comes in two parts: the village-like plateau and the dense, steep slopes leading down to the city centre. At the top (served by France’s highest-climbing Métro line) lie low-rise streets and squares lined with indie shops, bars and bistros. Then it’s a hair-raising descent down the Montée de la Grande Côte to the lower slopes, dotted with vinyl, vintage and objets d’art.

Little Yard

Lyon’s gastronomic reputation goes back centuries, but a new wave of bistros and caves are bringing it up to date. Though technically a Parisian import, this buzzing pizzeria leans on the local with biodynamic bottles from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region and charcuterie from the neighbourhood’s Tête Bech butchers. culinaries.fr/pages/little-yard

Bistrot Jutard

Surface at Croix-Rousse Métro and you can’t miss this bustling corner bistro. Jutard is at its best (and liveliest) on summer weekends, when a seafood bar pops up on the terrace, an enormous farmer’s market takes over the boulevard outside, and locals round off a morning’s shopping with a cold glass of Mâcon-Villages in the sunshine. bistrotjutard.com

Blitz

The Blitz boutique is an essential stop for devotees of the kitsch, eclectic and colourful. Whether it’s a ceramic fish, a neon light shaped like a Bic biro or a Tom of Finland action figure, you’ll always walk out of here with something unexpected. Up the spiral staircase, a tiny gallery showcases local artists and illustrators. @blitz_lyon

Kraspek Myzik

A lynchpin of the city’s underground music scene, Kraspek Myzik has hosted raw, sweaty gigs, jam sessions and open-mics in its little back room for more than 20 years. For something less gritty but equally grassroots, check out nearby A Thou Bout d’Chant – dedicated to chanson, French rap and other musique francophone. kraspekmyzik.com/kraspek-myzik

Le Bouchon des Filles

There’s nothing more distinctively Lyonnais than a bouchon: an old-fashioned, down-to-earth bistro serving hearty plates for working people. This one revives an old tradition of women-led bouchons, gently updating the classics (order the pike quenelle) in a cosy room with furniture sourced from the founders’ grandmothers. Book ahead. lebouchondesfilles.fr

Hôtel Fort Saint Laurent Lyon

Since the sixteenth century, this formidable building has spent time as a fortress, a convent and a revolutionary barracks. Nowadays it’s a hotel pairing its historic architecture with muted contemporary design. The trump card is the terrace bar and restaurant, perched on a cliff with spectacular views over the Rhône. accor.com