In the neighbourhood: Les Goudes, Marseille

Marseille’s 8th arrondissement marks the southern tip of the city, a village-like spot that locals call le bout du monde (the end of the world). Here the road surrenders to the calanques, a jagged coast of white limestone cliffs and turquoise inlets. Fishermen still land the morning catch here, but now there is a sculpture park in a former factory and a cluster of cool waterfront restaurants. Whether swimming off the rocks in summer or hiking on trails in winter, you’re only 30 minutes from the centre of Marseille, but it feels like a world away.

La Marine des Goudes

Marseille food star Paul Langlère has revived this harbour-front institution, bringing fresh energy to the village. The daily catch, often served simply grilled with olive oil, rules the chalkboard. The bouillabaisse is wonderful and fairly priced, especially when you’re eating it with the fishing boats right in front of you. la-marine-des-goudes-restaurant-marseille.com/

Tuba

This old diving school balances industrial pipes and raw concrete with smart bedrooms, while chef Sylvain Roucayrol’s seafood keeps the restaurant packed all year round. Book a table ahead or go straight upstairs to Bikini, the rooftop bar, for cocktails and views that stretch to the horizon. This is Marseille’s most-talked-about hotel for a reason. tuba-club.com

Friche de l’Escalette

This abandoned lead-processing plant hosts one of the coast’s wildest art projects. Art collector Éric Touchaleaume has filled the crumbling site with contemporary work and Jean Prouvé pavilions. It’s open only in July and August, but there’s a coastal hiking trail running right above it with views down into the ruins. friche-escalette.com

La Boissonerie

This sandwich shop in a converted fisherman’s hut serves improbably good coffee and exceptional sandwiches. Thick tuna, olives and vegetables are stuffed into soft bread, perfect for a hike. Locals treat the outside tables like a second living room, lingering there for hours. The vibe is unhurried, friendly, and entirely unpretentious. instagram.com/boissonnerie.marseille

Restaurant Chez le Belge

The hike to reach Chez le Belge is a marvel in itself, a stunning 45-minute walk through the calanques to the isolated Marseilleveyre cove. The owners don’t take bookings, or cash, and the service can be brisk. But with pasta, cold wine and feet dangling in the Mediterranean, all is forgiven. facebook.com/chezlebelge

Le Cabanon des Goudes

Design duo Marine and Camille have turned two fisherman’s huts into pocket-sized rentals. Inside it’s a riot of colours – tomato-red tiles and green gingham; outside you’re seconds from the harbour. It’s the perfect base for the slow life: morning swims, lazy lunches and believing their motto – Life is Goudes. thecabanondesgoudes.fr