In the neighbourhood: Christianshavn, Copenhagen

Just across the water from Copenhagen’s main canal-side drag, Christianshavn is a quiet patch of the city that may have been put on the map by Noma, but has now made a name for itself beyond chef René Redzepi’s bad press. The neighbourhood is also home to Copenhagen’s self-governing freetown, Christiania – but the best way to catch a glimpse is via a lakeside running route that bypasses the tourist trap itself while weaving between curious waterside shacks and handmade houses. Back on the other side of the canal, a crew of independent businesses has set up shop in former maritime warehouses.

The Apartment

This next-generation Airbnb is an evolution of gallerist-turned-interior-designer Tina Seidenfaden Busck’s former showroom. A vintage French four-poster sits in the main bedroom, while intricate paper geraniums, original Matisse prints and bright red lino stools by Finnish designer Alvar Aalto showcase her distinctive design eye. theapartment.dk

Grød

Named after the Danish word for porridge, Grød does exactly what it says on the tin: pretty bowls of porridge layered with dollops of caramel and cacao nibs or apple compote, whole roasted almonds and skyr. Arrive at 9am on weekends to avoid a queue. groed.com

La Banchina

A waterside café and sauna is housed in a former ferry waiting room. In the summer, the jetty is packed with sunbathers dipping in and out of the sea between tempura cod buns or grilled mackerel with potato salad and glasses of cool pét nat. labanchina.dk

Prolog

Here, the city’s favourite breakfast, the BMO – a sourdough roll simply filled with butter and cheese – is made with Søbo cheese and butter from a regenerative farm outside the city. Follow up with a sticky tart-like almond croissant supplied by Juno the bakery, then cycle slightly further along the canal to pick up the almost-burnt sourdough loaves from Hart Bageri. prologcoffee.com

Rosforth & Rosforth

This wine bar under the bridge supplies bottles to the best restaurants in the city. Locals gather at the handful of picnic tables on the water from 4.30pm (when most offices clock off) to sip on organic wine. Keep an eye on the chef-led pop-up series. rosforth.dk

Loft

Hidden behind traditional Nyboder yellow frontage this small store is a great spot to discover in-the-know Scandinavian fashion brands. Alongside the latest Pavement sandals, hangers are draped in smock tops and tailored shorts by Danish brands Rouge Edit and Sissel Edelbo. instagram.com/loftbyloftet.cph

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