On your first trip to the Greek capital, the big-hitters are a must. Marvel at the Acropolis, Parthenon and Agora – all sites to behold; the National Archaeological Museum is replete with antiquities. Only, there’s so much more for visitors in this buzzy metropolis than its jam-packed ancient wonders: a thriving food scene, enchanting nightlife, an eclectic cultural calendar, crystal clear coastlines and a litany of neighbourhoods each with unique characters. It's all this that'll keep you returning. Avoid the high-season heat, price-hikes and holidaying hoards if you can, either by visiting in springtime, or from mid-September onwards.
Friday 4pm: Soak up your surrounds
Drop your bags at La Divina, a peaceful hotel once a neoclassical musical hall in the city’s historical centre (rooms from £130). Barge through the crowds in ancient Plaka towards white-washed Anafiotika, then enter the verdant National Garden, pocketing a beer (Mamos, preferably) from any kiosk you pass.
6pm: Sneak in for sunset
Above the Panathenaic Stadium, join residents who stroll the tree-lined paths of Ardittos Hill each evening, with exquisite city views. Squeeze through the fence gap on Klitomachou, or enter via the Modern Olympic Games Museum courtyard like a local. Crack that cold can open in the serenest sundowner spot.
8pm: People watch in Pangrati
Have a drink at the nearby (bar not hotel) Chelsea Hotel, an institution. Arrive early for a street-side table. Peckish? Order salty skewers of souvlaki from Elvis a few doors down, and watch the eclectic weekend crowd converge.
Saturday 10am: Start shopping
Browse the best vintage stores while exploring the city. Start at Second Hand Lux in upscale Kolonaki, then in anarchic Exarcheia, stop by Piracy Vintage and City Pearlz next door. Last up is rats.vintageclothing in Monastiraki. Then, nab a table at Tis Theatrou To Steki for a cheap, tasty al fresco lunch.
12pm: Venture coastward
See the city from the T6 tram. Jump on at central Syntagma to Edem – the final, seaside stop. Have a dip in the Aegean at Paralia Mpati. Dry off and take a terrace table at O Mpakalis for top tier, traditional Greek fare.
4pm: See sports
Just up the coast are two neighbouring stadiums, home to Olympiacos’s football and basketball clubs. Match days here are raucous among the sea of supporters, just steer clear of celebratory red flares.
7pm: Unwind in Kypseli
This trendy neighbourhood is best enjoyed from the laid back restaurants and bars surrounding the (circular) Agios Georgios Kypseli Square. Order the orzo at Kyveli, and cocktails at It's a Village afterwards.
11pm: Go out out
Head to Gazi for a dose of Athenian nightlife. At Bar B327, punters spill out from the dance floor into the illuminated-papier-mâché-planet lined alley, Next door, Skordópistē’s tranquil courtyard is the perfect place for a nightcap and late night snack.
Sunday 10am: Make for the market
Take the metro to Eleonas, and join the bargain-hunting throng. Weekend mornings, this otherwise industrial area hosts the Scavengers’ Union Market. Sprawling out down side streets, It’s a treasure trove of treats… and trash.
2pm: Feast on fish
Lagoudera Λαγουδέρα, 10 minutes away on foot. This family favourite seafood restaurant is far from the tourist trail. Confusingly, it’s on Greek navy property. Hand your ID into the on-duty sailor at the entrance, order a litre of house white wine, and scoff all sorts of seafood. Book ahead.
6pm: Head uphill
At 277m, Lycabettus Hill is the highest point in Athens with unbeatable vistas. It’s a 45-minute hike, or take the funicular at golden hour. Once dark descends, dine at Dexameni below on a charming pedestrianised street, then catch a film at the outdoor cinema next door.
In brief
Eat
Queues form at Atlantikos for good reason. In the heart of the city centre, the best seafood is served up at remarkably reasonable prices.
Stay
Want a rooftop pool with Acropolis views? Try either the five star St George Lycabettus Lifestyle Hotel (rooms from £114) or contemporary and casual Neoma (rooms from £97).
Do
Skip the incessant history Googling and leave the facts to a guide. Athens Free Tour (athens-free-tour.com) is one of many operators offering free walking tours of this ancient city.
Photograph by Getty Images