A weekend away in Croatia’s picture-perfect port on the Aegean
Take Dubrovnik, shrink it by half, remove the cruise crowds and sprinkle in some Italian va-va-voom and you have Rovinj: a picture-perfect walled town where the ancient streets run into the crystal-clear Aegean. As its foodie star rises, its under-the-radar status is slipping; Rovinj now has the most Michelin stars in Croatia outside Zagreb, thanks to its Italian culinary heritage (Istria was part of Italy until 1945), seafood-rich seas and strong seam of local food producers, specialising in olive oil, truffles and salumeria, wine and cheese. Far from a sightseeing destination, Rovinj is a place to amble and soak up the atmosphere – in the Old Town, on the water, or island-hopping through the nearby archipelago. Go now, before the word really gets out.
Friday 1pm: Check in at the MelegranThe elegantly restored townhouse hotel allows you to wander the Old Town’s narrow, car-free cobbled streets. (The hotel's golf-cart shuttle service will pick up guests up from the Valdibora car park, a five-minute walk away). Eating on the waterfront can be pricey; pull up a stool at the outdoor counter of Tunaholic instead for a sardine burger.
3pm: Work off lunch The long climb up to the top of St Euphemia church’s bell tower is rewarded with glorious views across terracotta rooftops to the sea. Afterwards, dip into Rovinj’s Italian heritage with a gelato from Gelateria I Nonni (Obala Alda Rismonda 15).
6pm: Head out to sea Enjoy Rovinj and its archipelago from the water on a 90-minute sunset boat cruise – there’s a good chance of seeing dolphins.
8pm: Dine out, Michelin-style Rovinj is having a foodie moment, but Monte was the town’s first Michelin-starred restaurant; tuck into lobster tartare in the tranquil courtyard where chef Danijel Dekić was born. Reservations essential.
Related articles:
Saturday 10am: Shop with the locals Visit the daily green market, set against the terracotta townhouses on Valdibora Square. Locals come for fresh fruit and veg, but local honey, salami and truffles make tasty gifts.
1pm: Crack open a bottle Istrian wines are some of Croatia’s best, and the Dobravac Winery is an easy 15-minute walk from the town centre.
2.30pm: Escape the busy streets The cypress and cedar trees in forest park Punta Corrente, a relaxed 20-minute walk from town, create a cool, shady canopy. The small pebble bays are perfect for swimming.
6.30pm: Cocktail hour Settle in at Valentino, a champagne and cocktail bar with cushion seating scattered across the rocks, for the best sunset views.
8.30pm: Waterfront dining Reserve a table at Puntulina for fresh seafood, local Istrian wines and pasta dishes that leave room for indulgent, homemade desserts, including Crema Catalana.
Sunday 10am: Go for a dip Take the boat from Rovinj harbour for a slow-paced morning on Crveni Otok (Red Island), with unspoilt, tranquil coves and warm, clear water.
1pm: Splurge on seafood Finish up with a seafood platter – grilled fish, langoustine, shrimp, squid and mussels, with blitva – at Vela (Mazzini 1), a family-run restaurant with classic Istrian dishes.
Photograph by Harry Horton/Alamy
Editor’s note: our recommendations are chosen independently by our journalists. The Observer may earn a small commission if a reader clicks a link and purchases a recommended product. This revenue helps support Observer journalism.
Social links
Copyright © 2025 Tortoise Media
All Rights Reserved
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.