Six of the best: where to buy London’s finest bagels

While bagels arrived in Britain from eastern Europe sometime in the mid-19th century, the last few years have seen a flood of arrivals from America. But can you make a New York bagel in Stoke Newington? And why would you even want to? To try and answer these questions – and work out what makes our local variant of the bread roll unique – I spoke to bakers and food scientists, and visited nearly two dozen bagel shops across Greater London. These were my best bites.

Hendon Bagel Bakery

This north London kosher bakery serves a lot more than bagels, but when the bagels are fresh, they’re just right: flavourful, crusty and perfectly fluffy in the centre. Hendon’s Jewish community has been swearing by them since 1983. 55-57 Church Road, London NW4 4DU

Kleinsky’s

These New York-style bagels landed in London in 2024 by way of Cape Town, where Adam Kleinsky perfected his recipe by leaving his dough to ferment in the fridge for up to 48 hours. The deli has a posh feel, befitting its Mayfair location, but the generously laden smoked sandwiches are still reasonably priced at £9. 39 North Audley Street, London W1K 6ZW

It’s Bagels

New York to the core, this fast-growing bagel chain offers a true taste of the Big Apple’s outer boroughs, with thinly sliced, smoked pastrami, egg and smoked salmon toppings on seeded bagels and Mets baseball-themed decor. Founded by a former New Yorker Dan Martensen, this pandemic passion project has become an unexpected – yet well-deserved – fan favourite. 8 D’Arblay Street, London W1F 8DP – plus Primrose Hill and Notting Hill branches

Carmelli

Carmelli’s or Daniels? Is a north London litmus test. My vote rests with the former kosher bakery, which has been a Golders Green institution since 1987. Their bagels are crustier than their competitors’, but also arguably more flavourful. For dessert, try the chocolate rugelach and jam-filled hamentaschen. 126, 128 Golders Green Road, London NW11 8HB

Papo’s

Georgia Fenwick-Gomez and Gabe Gomez founded this Dalston bakery after moving from New York in 2020. The crusty, dense bagels come with all the classic toppings of a Brooklyn deli and get even better in fairer weather (likely a consequence of the oven temperature). Amhurst Road, London E8 2AJ

Beigel Bake

Undoubtedly London’s most popular bagel – or “beigel” – shop, this Brick Lane institution has been serving salt beef all day and night since 1979. On Sundays, morning shoppers share the queue with partiers heading home to bed, all after the same thing: stacks of meat, gherkins and mustard on glossy plain bagels with a pillowy softness. 159 Brick Lane, London E1 6SB