48 Hours in… Palermo

There’s a laid-back charm to Palermo’s peculiar version of chaos which makes this city hugging the Mediterranean irresistible. The faded grandeur of its historical centre glows in the golden hue of the late-afternoon sun, and the cobblestoned streets buzz with chit-chat at night. The Sicilian capital has a layered history that has seen it conquered at various points by Greeks, Arabs and Bourbons; cultures have merged for centuries in this port city and plenty of architectural riches remain as traces. Above all, this is where you’ll eat some of the best food Italy has to offer, so plan visits to spectacular palazzi and churches, but allow for temptation to lead you astray well beyond mealtimes.

Friday 1pm – Sample the goods

Drop your bags at Palazzo Planeta, a series of well-appointed apartments managed by one of Sicily’s foremost winemaking families, and head to I Cuochini for a taste of Palermo’s typical rosticceria: baked and fried goods stuffed with ham, cheese, ragù and more. The arancine here are “mignon” for ample sampling.

Friday 3pm – Delve into the past

Palazzi have been converted into galleries all over town: the Museo Archeologico Salinas is one of the best. Other than hosting an impressive collection of antiquities from Sicily’s era as a Greek colony, this museum is home to a clutch of endearing turtles that paddle in its central fountain. 

Friday 6pm – Hit refresh

Ice cream in Palermo must be enjoyed not in a cone, but in a fluffy brioche: pick the pistachio at La Kala and stroll around the pretty marina and the vast seafront passeggiata, the Foro Italico. 

Friday 7pm – Spritz at sunset

Palermo itself doesn’t have many spots set directly on the waves (to spend time on the beach, you’ll have to reach Mondello or Sferracavallo). Nautoscopio is one of the few: sip on a spritz with your feet in the sand, on this perfect sunset perch. 

Friday 9pm – Seafood supper

Many street-side spots will grill the day’s catch on the spot but for the best contemporary take on seafood, book Sardina Pasta Bar. Here, the dishes are unconventional but inspired – don’t miss the spaghetti with raw red prawns. 

Saturday 9am – Sicilian breakfast

Breakfast tradition in Palermo dictates dipping a brioche into almost-melting granita: choose between lemon, coffee or gelsi (mulberries). Spinnato has two outposts around town but the original in Via Principi di Belmonte is the grandest and best. 

Saturday 10am – Flea market hunting 

The walkways around the garden in Piazza Marina, with its monumental fig trees, get taken over by a flea market every Saturday and Sunday morning, where there are antique and mid-century gems to be found. 

Saturday 1pm – Fried feast

For the most traditional, speedy Palermitan lunch, grab a plastic chair on the unassuming terrace of Nni Franco U Vastiddaru and order some of the fried delights on offer: panelle (chickpea fritters), crocché (potato croquettes), or – if you’re feeling brave – the city’s divisive pani ca meusa (spleen sandwich).

Saturday 2pm – Art immersion

The contemporary art inside Palazzo Butera, a fully refitted Baroque palazzo, is world class, but don’t forget to pop out on the stunning, panoramic tiled terrace. 

Saturday 4pm – Sample sacred sweets

Visit the Monastery of Santa Caterina for further indulgence: the nuns here make peerless sweets, best enjoyed in the pretty cloister. Ornate Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, San Cataldo church and impressive Piazza Pretoria are all a stone’s throw away. 

Saturday 8pm – Homely dinner 

Set inside a charming former bookshop in the heart of the city, just off the sculptural Quattro Canti crossroads, Bisso Bistrot brings modern but homely flair to Sicilian classics, from aubergine caponata to swordfish rolls.

Saturday 11pm – Raise a glass

The party in Palermo frequently takes over streets and squares in the Vucciria neighbourhood – ease yourself in with chilled-out cocktails at Ferramenta, a former hardware store turned chic wine bar. 

Sunday 10am – Cultural cluster

While the golden Cathedral can also be admired from the outside, it is worth spending proper time at the Palazzo dei Normanni, a fortress that evolved through the centuries, to admire its byzantine-style mosaics. With its plump red domes, nearby San Giovanni degli Eremiti is mesmerising and quieter.

Sunday 1pm – Market spree

Markets are part of the identity of Palermo. Ballarò is one of its most historic and multi-cultural; much as it is tamed nowadays, it is still a bustling place to grab one last colourful lunch. 

IN BRIEF

STAY: The apartments at Palazzo Planeta are set in an early-1900 building in the stateliest quarter of the city, between the Teatro Massimo and Politeama. 

EAT: Open from breakfast to late evening, Nni Franco U Vastiddaru is the most dependable spot in town for fried Palermitan peccadillos. 

DON’T MISS: A walk through the meandering alleys of La Kalsa; if you’re lucky, you might bump into an exuberant wedding or two spilling out of its multiple churches. 

Image by Getty