Away from the Gothic quarter on the other side of Barcelona’s most famous street, La Rambla, lies the neighbourhood of Raval. A bohemian hub for artists in the 1920s, by the end of the century it garnered a bad rap as the red-light district but now, this multicultural part of town is evolving once again. The grand Hotel España has reopened after a fresh renovation, the BoquerÃa market is returning to its roots selling produce following sustainable tourism measures and there’s been a spree of new openings shaking up the food and drink scene.
Hotel España Ocean Drive
Gaudà may have garnered international fame but his contemporary Domènech i Montaner started the Modernisme movement – the Catalan take on Art Nouveau – which shaped Barcelona. He transformed this hotel in his theatrical style in 1902 with handpainted ceilings, giant carved fireplaces and a breakfast room wrapped in a mosaic mermaid mural. Back open this May following a renovation by an equally maximalist mind, Catalan interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violan, the hotel also has a standout restaurant and rooftop bar. od-hotels.com
Tacos Guzman
At this riotous new spot, tacos are designed to be devoured standing up. The music is loud and crowds spill into the street, frozen margaritas in hand, working their way through the short menu of Tijuana street food favourites that fly out the open kitchen after being grilled over charcoal. tacosguzman.com
La Central and Bar Central
Housed in a former chapel dating to the 16th century, this sprawling bookshop has titles in a variety of languages, a packed events agenda and one of the city’s most serene terraces at the adjacent Bar Central. Pull up a seat under the orange trees and enjoy a coffee or vermouth with a new book. lacentral.com
Arraval
Representing the new wave of eateries opening up in this part of town, Arraval is a sleek space with natural wine bottles lining the stainless-steel counter and candles burning on minimally dressed tables. Here, a trio of chefs with Michelin backgrounds put a contemporary spin on Catalan cuisine using local market produce – miss the onion soup grilled sandwich at your peril. arravalrestaurantbarcelona.com
Carrer de JoaquÃn Costa
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The beating heart of the neighbourhood, this street has some very well curated shops between its rowdy cocktail bars and Pakistani greengrocers. Browse the 1970s furniture and Andalusian pottery at Fusta’m, eclectic Mexican homewares at Fantastik and the artisan perfumes at Les Topettes. fustam.cat; fantastik.es; lestopettes.com
Bar Marsella
This corner address has many claims to fame as the oldest bar in the city, watering hole of Picasso and Dalà and backdrop to Vicky Cristina Barcelona. Today, 200 years later, it very much remains an atmospheric albeit crumbling place to while away the night into the early hours – especially if drinking the bar’s signature absinthe, served with water and a sugar cube. instagram.com/barmarsella
Alamy Stock Photo