Just visiting… Innsbruck

Perched high in the snowy mountains, there’s a lot more to this compact medieval city than winter sports. Capital of Tyrol, Innsbruck was a centre of wealth and Habsburg power for centuries, but now happily embraces the new. The boldly futuristic cable car stations that zip you from city to piste and the Olympic ski jump, both designed by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, are as much a part of the city aesthetic as the opulent Hofburg Palace or Emperor Maximilian I’s Golden Roof. The contrast of city and nature is all around: wander the gothic streets of the old quarter, lined with cafés, bars and boutiques, and minutes later, soar up the mountainside for glittering views of the Alps.

Friday midday: Head for the heights
Take a ride straight to the top of Innsbruck - Hafelekar peak - in a Nordkette cable car, a space age funicular designed by Zaha Hadid, for a bird’s eye view of the Nordkette peaks.

1pm: Sit in the sun
One cable car stop down is Seegrube ski resort, positioned halfway between the city and the summit. Restaurant Seegrube’s sun terrace offers the best wraparound views.

3pm: Hit the Hofburg
Marvel at the Habsburg splendour of the city’s grand palace, an imperial residence for over 600 years. The Giants’ Hall is a highlight; acres of Baroque opulence lined with Empress Maria Theresa’s portraits, including one of her daughter Marie Antoinette.

5.30pm: Raise the roof
It’s hard to miss Innsbruck’s Golden Roof gleaming against an Alpine backdrop in the old town. Made up of 2,657 fire-gilded copper roof tiles, it was created for Emperor Maximilian I at the turn of the 16th century. Grab a steaming mug of Glühwein from a stall in the square and enjoy a daily musical recital from its balcony.

7.30pm: Dine in the clouds
Weitsicht on the top floor of the city’s tallest hotel offers a buzzy alternative to traditional Tyrolean food with tasty vegetarian options including truffle risotto and vertiginous views from its roof terrace.

Saturday 11am: Take a view to a thrill
High on a hill just outside the city is the Bergisel ski jump, famous for hosting major ski jumping championships, along with a viewing tower and restaurant. Another Zaha Hadid design triumph, this steel and glass creation suspended high over the city feels like a sleek James Bond lair. Bag a window table for the best views in town and their Bergisel Sky Brunch – scrambled egg, smoked salmon and a glass of champagne.

2pm: Schnapps to it
Take a half-hour train ride or car trip out of town to Kühtai, nestled in the Stubai Alps and the highest ski village in the area. Watch the skiers fly past you from the piste-side sun terrace of Kühtaier Dorfstadl - a view best enjoyed with a warming schnapps and slice of homemade sachertorte.

4pm: Taste the best coffee
Head back in to Innsbruck to browse the winding medieval lanes of the old quarter. For the best cappuccinos, locals swear by La Pausa café on Kiebachgasse and, across the street, is the oldest bakery in the town, Konditorei Munding, is legendary for apple strudel and hot chocolate.

7pm: Dine at Gasthof Wilder Mann
Just outside Innsbruck, in the postcard-pretty Tyrolean village of Lans, this cosy, wood-panelled hideaway serves up all the classics. Try steak slices in cream sauce with rosti.

Sunday 11am: Go for the glitter
Embrace the sparkle of Swarovski Crystal World, next to the original factory 20 minutes east of Innsbruck. F ounded in 1895 by Daniel Swarovski.

1pm: Savour a schnitzel
Relish a final buttery chicken schnitzel at Daniel’s, in Swarovski’s grounds, a sparkling architectural interior that feels as if you are sitting inside a snowflake.

2.30pm: Capture a castle
Just 15 minutes away is Schloss Ambras, Innsbruck’s finest Renaissance castle, is worth a visit for its curiosities, including one of the earliest known portraits of Vlad the Impaler, fictional inspiration for Count Dracula.

Photograph: Alamy