Just visiting: Mahón, Menorca

Annabelle Thorpe

Just visiting: Mahón, Menorca

How to spend 48 hours in this chic, buzzy island capital


Pint-sized and picturesque, Mahón is not your average Mediterranean capital; part (small) modern city, part historic fortress town, with gargantuan churches and centuries-old military buildings overlooking the Mediterranean’s second-longest harbour. It’s the perfect size for a slow-paced weekend: from strolling between waterfront cocktail bars and browsing the island’s world-famous shoe shops to sampling local gin, cheeses and sobrasada – Menorca’s trademark spicy sausage – all easily sandwiched into a sun-kissed 48 hours.

Friday 1pm: It’s barely 10 minutes’ drive from Mahón’s pocket-sized airport to the centre of town, so book a morning flight and you’ll be in plenty of time to check in at Can Alberti 1740, an elegant 18th century mansion converted into a chic,14-room hotel in the heart of the historic centre, before strolling down to Placa d’Espanya, the town’s main square, for lunch. The Mercat de Claustre, an imposing former Carmelite convent on the north-east corner of the square, is now home to a clutch of cafes and specialist food shops. Pick of the bunch is El Trueno, which has been welcoming diners since 1892, with classic tapas – maybe croquetas, deep-friend endive or cuttlefish with sobrasada. Bag a table on the sunny terrace for fabulous views over the harbour.

3pm: Visit the Xoriguer gin distillery Arguably the oldest gin in the Mediterranean and produced to the same recipe originally used in the 1700s. English-speaking tours and tastings at 10am and 3pm on weekdays (€15, around an hour long). Kick the weekend off properly with a visit to the Xorigeur gin distillery (xoriguer.es), set on the harbourfront, a short walk from Placa d’Espanya. Arguably the oldest gin in the Mediterranean, and produced to the same recipe originally used in the 1700s, there are English-speaking tours at 10am and 3pm on weekdays (€15).

4.30pm: Browse around the Old Town Pop into Loft (Carrer Portal del Mar 3) for chic linen clothing, Posidonia for delicate handmade jewellery (Carrer d’Alaior 18), Casa M for an eclectic mix of homewares, ceramics and clothing (Carrer s’Arravaleta 16) and Es Celleret de Mao (Carrer de Hanover 41) for paprika-skinned Mahón cheese (get some vacuum-packed to take home).

7.30pm: Take a taxi or bus (no 2 or 25 from Mahon Bus Station) for the 10-minute drive to the small town of Es Castell, a couple of miles along the harbour from Mahón. Book an outdoor table at Trebol for freshly-caught seafood and fish dishes or settle in a Sa Punta, where classic Menorcan dishes such as fideuia – similar to paella, but made with noodles – are given a contemporary twist with Asian flavours.

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10pm: Back in Mahón Have a nightcap at the BB Cocktail Bar El Mirador (Placa d’Espanya 2), which has views from its roof terrace.

Saturday 10.30am: Take a Yellow Catamaran boat tour – an hour’s glide past historic naval bases, ruined forts and grand colonial houses. Then head to the Museu de Menorca, a former Franciscan monastery, where airy cloisters are filled with works of sculpture and each room is given over to different periods, from the prehistoric Talayotic culture, which left dozens of ancient sites dotted across the island, to almost a century of intermittent British occupation, from 1708-1802.

1pm: After all that culture, reward yourself with a classic Menorcan lunch. For something light, Es Longuet Forn Artesa (Carrer del Rosari 12) is a local’s favourite; a buzzy bakery and café, offering longuets – traditional bread rolls stuffed with fillings such as sobrasada and honey – and flaó, a hot, cheese-filled pie. Or, take your pick from the pintxo bars that now occupy half of the Mercat de Pescados. The other half retains the original counters, filled with freshly-caught fish, with tables in the courtyard and cold beers on tap.

2pm: It’s a 10-minute taxi ride to the lagoon-style beach of Platja es Grau, flanked by the small whitewashed village of Es Grau and the forested S’Albufera des Grau National Park rolling out behind. Several well-marked walking trails lead from the village into the park.

7.30pm: Take an evening stroll Join locals out for a run or walking their dogs on Mahón’s 5km waterfront walk, lined with authentic tapas bars and restaurants. Can Vermut (Moll de Llevant) is a great spot for a glass and a tapa or two, to keep you going until dinner.

9pm: Reserve a table at Anna and Pepe cosy, family-run restaurant, where the tapa might include tuna tartare with guacamole, patatas bravas in a rich, garlicky sauce and tangy Mahón cheese with dried tomatoes and courgettes.

10pm: Finish the night with some live jazz or blues at Akelarre (Moll de Ponent 41), with tables set in a courtyard garden, or inside, beneath 200-year-old stone vaults.

Sunday 11am: The opening of the Menorcan outpost of global art brand Hauser & Wirth in 2021 was big news for Mahón, and four years on it’s one of the highlights of a visit to the city. A regular shuttle boat runs from the harbour for the 15-minute trip to the Illa de Rei, a small island originally used as a military hospital, now repurposed as a gallery, sculpture garden, café and shop. Current exhibitions include works by Cindy Sherman and sculpture by Phyllida Barlow and Gary Simmons. The shop sells bags, books, ceramics and jewellery by local makers.

1pm: 1pm Wrap the weekend up with a long, lazy lunch, either at Hauser & Wirth’s restaurant, Cantina, or back in Mahón, at the Michelin-listed El Rais. Set on the waterfront, overlooking the yachts moored up at the Club Maritimo marina, the restaurant’s signature dish is arroz del senyoret – black rice with Iberian pork – best washed down with a glass or two of Binifadet – the island’s most famous wine.

In brief

Eat Caldereta de Langosta – a rich lobster stew, flavoured with garlic, almonds and brandy

Stay Can Alberti 1740 historic boutique hotel

Buy Avarca sandals – the classic Menorcan open-toed shoe


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