To paraphrase Sophia Loren: everything you read, we owe to coffee. The Observer food team is fuelled by caffeine: we’re kickstarted by flat whites from cafes passed on the commute, then lean heavily on americanos from the office machine throughout the day. The morning coffee is delicious, the later cups are… there, plentiful and necessary. At home, some of us have hand-grinders for beans from independent roasters. Others depend on pre-ground coffee from the local supermarket, often whatever is on special.
Recently, Observer reporter James Tapper wrote a piece about how he learned to love coffee. His new-found devotion has inspired all of us to up our weekend cafetiere game. We asked James about his gateway coffee, as a recommendation. Then we asked the roaster of that for something they had recently enjoyed, and so on.
Here are five suggestions for coffee beans from independent, specialist UK roasters.
The Observer’s James Tapper recommends…
My first ever coffee was a Campbell and Syme red label roast, from Santa Maria in Nicaragua, a naturally processed caturra bean with a fruity overtone. That variety has sold out so my current favourite is another C&S natural – a Brazilian geisha coffee from Gabriel Nunes (£15, 250g).
Ben Kovar at Campbell and Syme recommends…
Wood Street Coffee Roasters is an independent, quality focused roastery that aims to source coffee ethically and responsibly. They upgraded to a new roaster in 2022, and since have dialled in their craft and their coffees are singing right now.
A recommendation for just one is hard, because I love how different all coffee tastes and all the amazing profiles out there. That being said, Wood Street currently has the Kinini Series (£14, 250g): four different processes from the same washing station in Rwanda – rather amazing!
George Bickersteth at Wood Street Coffee recommends…
Many people don’t know, but Tate has its own in-house roastery, for coffee in their gallery cafes and shops. You can also buy it online. Furthermore, they rent out their roasting machine for others to "slot" roast on – it’s actually where we began roasting back in 2018.
Coffee by Tate is a vibrant community-led non-profit business that helps fund Tate Gallery and champion coffee producers and professionals of all genders throughout the coffee value chain. They have a delicious Ethiopian coffee on at the moment, Guji Megadu (£15, 250g), and the artwork celebrates the current Turner and Constable exhibition. I love Ethiopian naturals because of their sweet floral notes, and this coffee is a true expression of that classic flavour profile.
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Joe Sompon Choosong at Coffee by Tate recommends…
Justin Eniola is a former school teacher who loves coffee and so became a coffee roaster; he founded Coborn Coffee nearly four years ago. It’s a very cool brand; they engage people in the coffee world to get together, be friends and have fun rather than be competitors. I really love how the scene has become.
Their range and quality is second to none. I have just tried their washed Ecuador Seadra (£15, 250g). It’s very sweet and fruity with a clean finish – it takes me away from a classic everyday cup to something more fun and bright.
Justin Eniola at Coborn Coffee recommends….
There are so many, but my friend Stephen at Lucid Coffee Roasters has a tasty little Rwandan Shyira natural filter coffee (£14.25, 250g). This coffee is sweet and complex, with a gentle fruit-forward start and tea-like finish on the palate. If you don’t have an appreciation for coffee flavour structures then no dramas – this is a pleasant sipper that doesn’t require a prior appreciation for coffee.
Stephen is an inspiration to me because we’ve both been in the industry for far too long, yet he remains curious and agile with the innovations taking place. He is a solo operator roasting tonnes of coffee each month, packing and posting that coffee, organising events and handing marketing all alongside a fabulous family. Honourable mentions? Mandi at BAD Coffee, Stu and Alex at Scenery Coffee, and Siala at Elsewhere Coffee.