In the neighbourhood: Cua Dai, Hoi An

Most travellers never venture beyond Hoi An’s lantern-strewn alleyways. But just outside the Unesco Old Town, a street called Cua Dai snakes its way out to the ocean. A short detour from the city’s tailor shops and tour groups, the neighbourhood’s beeping motorbikes, independent restaurants and fragrant fruit stands make up an in-the-know foodie enclave and an authentic taste of the real Hoi An.

Shimai

Sliding wooden doors open on to a Japanese wabi-sabi ramen joint, serving steaming bowls of tonkotsu and plates of fresh sashimi. When the rainy season hits Hoi An in October, this place is packed with locals craving a comforting bowl of noodles alongside a glass of Vietnamese sake. https://www.instagram.com/shimai_hoian/?hl=en

Alma Tropical Coffee & Brunch

A Vietnamese café filled with a young crowd sipping on kombucha and a menu using ingredients sourced daily from Hoi An’s markets. Browse the handmade soaps, then head outside to the courtyard in the late afternoon when the outdoor space becomes a sunset yoga and sound bath studio. https://www.instagram.com/alma_tropicalcoffeenbrunch

Kaymai

An old family home has been transformed into Hoi An’s coolest concept store. In one building, there are best-selling books, locally made linen clothes, handmade jewellery and ceramics. In the other, you can order a salted-plum soda and a lemon blueberry cinnamon roll. https://www.instagram.com/kaymaihoian/

Chi Chi Secondhand & More

Secondhand stores are all the rage in Hoi An, and Chi Chi arguably kicked off the craze. Head here for hipster Japanese wind jackets and vintage sports jerseys with bargain price tags. https://www.instagram.com/chichi2handhoian/

Lion’s Room

This pasta house churns out freshly made tagliatelle, ravioli and gnocchi from a bite-sized kitchen. Seats in this hole-in-the-wall spot are highly coveted for couples splitting a bottle of red wine, sardine crostini and a hearty Italian sausage ragù. https://www.instagram.com/lionsroomhoian/

Les Artisans d’Indochine

Run by a French-Vietnamese couple, this shop specialises in cured meats, cheese and wine imported from France, but they also sell Asian-made vinegars. The terrace is full of both locals and the French expat crowd and the gourmet sandwiches to go are excellent. https://www.facebook.com/hoiansalaisons/?locale=vi_VN

Oryza Villa

A few minutes down one of the side streets off Cua Dai is a minimalist private villa surrounded by rice paddy fields, a peaceful place to stay away from Hoi An’s hustle. The poured-concrete studio-style set-up has its own mini indoor zen garden and swimming pool overlooking the fields. https://www.facebook.com/OryzaVillaHoiAn/