How to make cervelles de canut - a tasty dip

A bouchon staple, this is best scooped up with baguette or radishes. Translated as “silk-weaver’s brains”, it’s another reference to the impoverished weavers of 18th-century Lyon. A simple and savoury spread of fresh cheese, herbs, vinegar and oil, it is very good if made with fresh goat’s curd if fromage blanc can’t be found, and if you have a bottle of walnut oil, then a final drizzle of that is delicious, too. Serves 8-10 as a part of a sharing meal. Ready in 10 minutes, plus 2 hours chilling

garlic clove 1
fromage blanc 500g
crème fraîche 125g
shallot 1, small, round and finely chopped
dry white wine 25ml
chardonnay vinegar 2 tsp
chervil leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
chives 1 tbsp, very finely chopped
flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
tarragon leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
espelette pepper a good pinch
olive oil 3 tbsp, or walnut oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Using the flat of your knife or a pestle and mortar, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt to form a smooth paste, then scrape it into a bowl. Add all the remaining ingredients to the bowl, season with plenty of black pepper and mix until smooth. Taste it and add more salt if needed. Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.

From The Racine Effect by Henry Harris (Quadrille, £40), published 26 March. Order a copy at observershop.co.uk for £36