Recipes

Sunday 22 March 2026

How to make cervelles de canut – a tasty dip

A particularly delicious cheese-and-herbs spread from the traditional restaurants of Lyon

Ingredients

garlic

1 clove

fromage blanc

500g

crème fraîche

125g

shallot

1 finely chopped

dry white wine

25ml

chardonnay vinegar

2tsp

chervil leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

chives

1 tbsp, very finely chopped

flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

tarragon

1 tbsp, chopped

espelette pepper

1 pinch

olive oil or walnut oil

3tbsp

salt and freshly ground black pepper

to taste

A bouchon staple, this is best scooped up with baguette or radishes. Translated as “silk-weaver’s brains”, it’s another reference to the impoverished weavers of 18th-century Lyon. A simple and savoury spread of fresh cheese, herbs, vinegar and oil, it is very good if made with fresh goat’s curd if fromage blanc can’t be found, and if you have a bottle of walnut oil, then a final drizzle of that is delicious, too.

From The Racine Effect by Henry Harris (Quadrille, £40), published 26 March. Order a copy at observershop.co.uk for £36

Serves

8-10

| Time

10 mins

garlic

1 clove

fromage blanc

500g

crème fraîche

125g

shallot

1 finely chopped

dry white wine

25ml

chardonnay vinegar

2tsp

chervil leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

chives

1 tbsp, very finely chopped

flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

tarragon

1 tbsp, chopped

espelette pepper

1 pinch

olive oil or walnut oil

3tbsp

salt and freshly ground black pepper

to taste

Serves

8-10

| Time

10 mins

Method

Using the flat of your knife or a pestle and mortar, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt to form a smooth paste, then scrape it into a bowl.

Add all the remaining ingredients to the bowl, season with plenty of black pepper and mix until smooth. Taste it and add more salt if needed.

Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.

Ingredients

garlic

1 clove

fromage blanc

500g

crème fraîche

125g

shallot

1 finely chopped

dry white wine

25ml

chardonnay vinegar

2tsp

chervil leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

chives

1 tbsp, very finely chopped

flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tbsp, chopped

tarragon

1 tbsp, chopped

espelette pepper

1 pinch

olive oil or walnut oil

3tbsp

salt and freshly ground black pepper

to taste

Method

Using the flat of your knife or a pestle and mortar, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt to form a smooth paste, then scrape it into a bowl.

Add all the remaining ingredients to the bowl, season with plenty of black pepper and mix until smooth. Taste it and add more salt if needed.

Cover and refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.

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